Finding The Green Spaces

Uncovering a little solitude away from the sleepless city is no easy feat. After our Spanish classes on Thursday, we take a walk down Avenue Belgrano, across the six lane "highway" Av. Alicia Moreau De Justo where 18 wheelers scream by us and blow emission test failing black exhaust, and make our way to the Puerto Madero at the north east end of BA.

Puerto Madero is an original old port area that is now becoming gentrified. The area was the second port constructed to serve the city, but when it proved ineffective, it was closed and has now since been converted into an area loaded with swanky condo apartments and expensive restaurants that line the canal lochs. Behind this old port is the Parque Natural y Reserva Ecologica. Originally destined to be the city's landfill site, it too was abandoned and self seeded into a rather wild overgrown area used mostly by bikers, joggers and birds.

It reminds us a bit of Toronto Island in that, taking a trip out there feels as though you are actually taking a mini-vacation from the city.




We take a stroll in the grounds, aiming to "find the ocean" which we are certain lies just on the edge of the Reserva. It does. But is not the ocean. The Porteños here call it "The Plata del Rio". We call it "Stinky".





The water is brown, brown, brown from the river and all the silt, sediment and garbage that flushes down it. The shoreline is lined with garbage and it smells like a toilet. Still, smell or no smell, there are amorous couples entwined all along the benches and grass near the water's edge as far as the eye can see.




When we look at the shore from Google Earth later, that brown band of gunk is clearly visible. From space! It looks as though it extends out for at least a kilometer or two from the lands edge, whereupon (presumably) the depth increases and the ocean currents sweeps the sediment along.

We spot many large barges reminding us that Buenos Aires is still a port town and, on the return walk, can't help but be slightly enamoured with the view of the city from the Reserva.





Another green space that we visit is the Jardin Japanés. For a mere $2 CAD we are able to wander through the well looked after grounds, marvel at the massive koi fish, and listen to the grunts of the practicing judo presentation that is taking place in the picturesque cultural building.




















Before heading back to San Telmo via the Subte, (yes we successfully navigated the city subway system) we have a peek in the Botanical Gardens (free!). Also lovely, with many sculptures and stray kitties. Thankfully, we see hoards of them being fed by a local woman — the kitties not the sculptures!!