Argentina Hot and Cold

I can never get a warm shower in Argentina. No matter how much I adjust the taps, the water seems to come out scalding hot or glacially cold — never an ideal, comfortable norm. That, in a shower stall, pretty much captures what this country is like.

The entire nation of Argentina is sandwiched between two hot and cold world class spectacles. At the chilly bottom resides the Perito Moreno glacier, perhaps the finest specimen anywhere when it comes to all things icy, receding and growing. Up north are the Iguazu Falls, located in the balmy sub tropics where temperatures easily climb over 30 degrees. Here, the Cataratas spill thousands of cubic litres of water per second along an array of falls, creating a sight that easily holds its own against its icy southern cousin.




Perhaps it is this contrasting geographical phenomenon that underlies the experience of life in Argentina. Throughout our month and a bit here, many moments left us thrilled and excited alongside many that left us feeling cold and flat.

The food (most of it served hot or cold) leaves us mostly cold, except for the amazing bottles of Mendoza malbec we've uncovered, some of the best coffee we've ever tasted, those delicious alfajores and puffy empandas filled with all things good. We've had some very excellent meals and then we've had way too much salt, sugar, and wheat.

You have the beauty of the untouched Patagonia — stunningly pristine and tranquil and with vistas that go on endlessly. We were left gaping at times, turning our bodies 360 degrees to try and take it all in, only to return to the start and then begin the full spin again.




And then there is Buenos Aires — noisy, ugly, crowded, dirty. The exact opposite of any moment out in the vast clean air of the lakes and mountains. And yet, the capitol city itself is a contrast — the beautiful old world architecture, the tango, the quaint cafes and the irrepressible buzz of creativity in the air. And then the crime, the smog, the decaying buildings, the endless clamour. The Cementario Ricoletta mashes old world decay and rotting coffins with modern marble and glass luxury to create rows upon rows of distinct shrines to loved ones of the past.

Everywhere, these contrasts, pushed together in one country, intermingling, but never quite able to produce an ideal temperature, a norm, a decent stream of warm water. Maybe it's my North American need to want to find a middle ground, a place where the two can meet and bring a certainty and logical sense.

But, it's not like that. Argentina resists compromise, evades evenness. After much fiddling with the taps and cursing, I may be able to sustain a moment of warm water. But it quickly reverts to being either too hot or too cold, leaving me to seek the perfect temperature once more.

I always fail. The country is laughing at me. That's okay. It's a good joke and as we get ready to pack our bags and leave, I'm laughing too. I'm starting to get it.

Frustratingly beautiful. Magnificently ugly.

That's Argentina.


Note: One area where you will find a warmth is the people — just watch their greetings for each other which always begin with a kiss on the cheek. Observing two young men do this, with such genuine affection, was always a joy for Jenn and I. There was such a sense of deep connection and appreciation for one another. You rarely see that in North America. Too bad.