The Wet West Coast

Perhaps one of our nicest camp sites is found in Punakaiki, along the west coast, and home to the Pancake Rocks.

We drive here after camping in the "other" glacial town, Franz Josef. It is a rainy day that is good only for driving, with a quick stop in Hokitika for groceries. The rain stops when we arrive in Punakaiki and our campsite is right on the roaring, unswimmable beach. We spend some time before dinner dodging sandflies and hunting for jade rock, finding some nice pieces perfect for jewelry. But, later, one of the locals informs us it's not real jade, which would explain why there's all these stores selling it and people aren't just picking it up off the beach like we are!






We have visitor for the evening — a very friendly and purring orange tabby that follows us back to our camper after we brush our teeth, hops right in and settles down on the duvet.





In the morning, Seacat (Jenn's name for him) is still there, quite content to sleep away the day. Making up our bed, we reluctantly lift him out and off he goes in search of another easy couple.

Other highlights today include:

The Pancake Rocks of Punakaiki — Stratified stacks of weathered limestone filled with blowholes, caves, chasms and pounding surf are a fascinating example of the creative skills of the sea, working its magic over years and years. We spend half an hour walking the neatly arranged trail that takes you past all the viewing points and limestone artwork.




















Lunch in Granity — We buy a couple of pies in Westport (nowhere as good as Miles Better Pies in Te Anau) and stumble across a little beach picnic spot in the coastal hamlet of Granity. As Jenn says, watching the Tasman Sea while we eat is the very best TV.









The Oparara and Moria Gate Arches — Located on the edge of Kahurangi National Park in the Oparara Basin, these magnificent features showcase more of the water's work on the limestone, this time creating giant cathedral arches/caves. The Oparara Arch is an awesome 43 metres high, 40 metres wide and over 219 metres long.












The Moria Gate arch is smaller and accessed through a dingy cave descent. It's a 17 K drive along steep and narrow gravel roads to see them, but certainly worth it!




We reach the DOC campsite (again in the rain), past Karamea in Kohaihai, and park it for the night at the west coast's most northerly accessible point.