We arrived in Triabunna late in the afternoon on Tuesday and were relieved to find that the information center was still open. The kind ladies there filled us in and got us sorted. We left with information on the National Parks, a list of all the free camping areas up the east coast and a visual taster of what awaits on Maria Island. With a varied history that included an island penitentiary, farming, industrial production and even a failed resort village, Maria Island has our curiosity peaked. As a National Park it now is home to about 130 species of birds and several species of creatures that, were at one time, or still are, endangered.
Triabunna is where the ferry to Maria Island departs from. Taking the ferry is an expensive option but we can rent decent bikes from them as well. The cheaper taxi service runs spottily at this time of year. We decide that we are sufficiently intrigued by the island to fork out the cash and make the dash! If we had longer here we would undoubtedly spend several nights on the island, but we'll have to settle for one day.
We picked a glorious one too. John, the captain, welcomes us aboard saying "Well, did you ever pick the day! There are not many days when the ocean is as calm and still as it is now. It'll make for great wildlife spotting along the way".
When Keir inquires as to how long the crossing tends to take, John replies with "How long do you WANT it to take?". There is flexibility we learn. There are only 4 other passengers besides us so John chats with us all. When the first dolphins are spotted, Johns assistant slows the boat so that we can get a good view. The water is so clear and John invites us all up to the very front of the boat where he promises the best viewing. He's not kidding.
Maria island is described in our information pamphlet as "an intriguing Treasure Island of sheer dolerite bluffs, patterned cliffs, historic ruins steeped in tales of imprisonment and folly, and beautiful sweeping bays drenched in brilliant light". Sure. We'll take that!
We arrive at the island just about 11am. People and bikes loaded off, we stop first at the Parks museum where we get our first stamp in our National Parks "passport" book. From there we decided to head over to the Fossil Cliffs where enormous limestone rocks are literally entirely composed of 240 million year old fossils. Eurydesma (mussel-like shells) are visible, as are sea fans, scallop shells, coral type creatures and sea lilies. We clamber down to the waters edge to look up at the cliffs (and the Cape Barren Geese which look like something out of the 80's with their day-glo beaks, their red stockinged legs and their wide black "shoes").
We ride (alright PUSH) our bikes up as far as we can along the Bishop and Clerk mountain path stopping at the top of the incredibly high and visually striking sea cliffs to gaze out at the Tasman Sea.
We spot our first Foresters kangaroos and a few Bennets wallabies along this stretch, but are unable to get the camera out in time before they bound away. We get a little lost and end up on the circuit track to the reservoir (built by convicts in 1831 - the first convict era) before righting ourselves and heading out with the intention of making it down to the isthmus. We almost do but are sidetracked by the numerous diversions: Foresters kangaroos up close, wallabies, wombats, a kind of parrot like bird...and that is not even mentioning the crescent shapes of the glowing white quartzite beaches (offset beautifully by the crystalline waters).
The trail eventually turns to sand and the riding gets tough. We make it as far as we can (just about French Farm) before consulting the watch and consenting that we indeed do have to turn around and head back if we'd like to visit the Painted Cliffs and make the only return boat in time.
We hit the Painted Cliffs at the perfect sunlight time which highlights their uniqueness all the more. These cliffs are sandstone bluffs sculpted by rain, wind, sun and water. Their colours are swirled with iron oxide, making them resemble big puffs of meringue.
Can you spot the shark head in the sandstone below?
With luck we make it back to the wharf with just enough time to again capture the perfect light on one of the derelict buildings from the islands time as a penitentiary.
Five thirty is when we arrive back in Triabunna and already the light is fading fast. We head up further up the coast in the dark (driving carefully so as not to add to the roadkill along the side of the highway) and find the free camping site at the Mayfield Bay. We can hear the waves crashing outside on the beach, but we can't see it! A surprise for the morning!
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