Bouna, our guide, has two activities planned for us today in the Luang Prabang area — one to the museum of ethnology to learn a bit more about Laotian culture and then to the Kouang Si waterfalls about half an hour out of town and up into the jungle and mountain range. The museum is very interesting and well done — small and with a focus on the various Loatian ethnic groups (and there are many — something like 49!), their marriage customs, clothing and craftwork.
Rat trap, Laos. Hardcore...
Then it's into the tuk tuks we go for a gritty and breezy ride out of town into the hills. There are two things to check out at the waterfall — the falls themselves and the Asian bear reserve called Bear Lao.
Bear Lao is very difficult and yet important for us to see. The bears here have been rescued from the from bile farms set up covertly all over Asia where their bile is collected for Chinese medicine using a cruel and painful method. Efforts are being made to stop this practice and some progress has occurred, but it remains a terrible situation and very disturbing for us to hear about as we watch the rescued bears playing in their pens, knowing there are hundreds more still captive and at risk. We pester our Aussie volunteer guide, Luke, with questions, make a donation to help and then have the privilege of getting to go inside the bear pens (while the bears are in a different area, thankfully) and hide food for them in nooks and crannies all over their pen. We then retreat to the viewing platform and the bears are released with the challenge of finding their food. It's a kick to watch them discover what we've hidden and heartwarming to see them having a play while looking in all our secret places. The other inspiring news is that Bear Lao is aiming, within the next 12-15 months, to have all the bear enclosures enlarged and improved.
Breaking news bulletin! Jenn finds something she doesn't like to eat. For lunch, she orders a papaya salad.
Fresh made and spicy, it also contains a fermented fish oil which tastes just like raw fish. The smell is gag worthy. She can only eat a bite and is embarrassed to leave it untouched on the table. We pay and scoot.
Up to the waterfall we go, a dramatic 60 m drop that concludes in a myriad of crystal blue pools. We climb up to the top for a great view and then walk over to the busy but refreshing pools for a chance to swim and cool off from the heat. Almost everyone in our group has a dip and a few of us brave ones jump from the top of the smaller falls and take a turn swinging out from the rope. It is a nice bonding time for our Intrepies.
Refreshed, we head back into town, but not without a stop to see the rice paddies in the fields along the way and learn more about how rice is grown.
Back to guesthouse we go for a quick reorganization and then into town for the climb up the 183 stairs to see Phou Si, a temple that serves as the spiritual centre and provides some of the best panoramic views of the city. It is crowded at the top with everyone waiting for the sunset. We stake out a spot and get some shots ourselves.
Then it's down the steps and a short walk along to Utopia, a bar and restaurant along the river, run by a London ON resident, no less. Small world! Brett, Jenna and Uncle Morrie tag along with us. There are many twists and turns in the back alleys, past homes and guest houses until we find Utopia's front doors. It's worth all the effort. It's a fabulous place with good food, casual lounge seating on mats along the river, beer, music and the shisha or what we'd call a hookah pipe.
We are all in good spirits and feeling relaxed, and Morrie with his witty Aussie-style one liners, has us in stitches all night.
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