Like the Hanoi Hilton, for example. Not the swish hotel chain, but the Hoa Lo Prison, used to detain American prisoners of war from 1964 to 1973. One of its most famous residents was former U.S governor and presidential candidate, John McCain, a navy pilot who had his plane was shot down over Hanoi during a bombing raid.
The depictions of prison life were very sanitized and indeed looked like a weekend at the country club, which no doubt the Vietnamese government would like the world to believe it was. By Mr. McCain's written accounts, it was nothing of the sort. Torture and mistreatment of the POW's, as in all wars by all sides, was common. The prison was originally built by the French to incarcerate Vietnamese patriots and revolutionaries pre-1954 when France occupied Vietnam. Needless to say, the French did not strive to make prison life resemble anything like a country club for the Vietnamese. Far, far, from it... What goes around, comes around.
We also take in a beautiful water puppet performance — puppets that literally dance on water — a traditional and unique Vietnamese art form. The puppeteers stand waist deep in water and manipulate heavy and colourful wooden puppets using long poles under the water. The one hour show we catch in the auditorium in the heart of the Old Quarter shares tales of rural life complete with live musical accompaniment. It is a whimsical, lively and excellent cultural experience.
What's a day in Hanoi without dropping in at the corner noodle house and ordering a bowl of pho (pronounced fur). It is our best yet in Vietnam, probably due to the first rate curb side kitchen facilities.
This is one way to ship your Coke delivery... Steady as you go...
When leader Ho Chi Mihn read out the Vietnamese Declaration of Independence in 1945, freeing Vietnam from French tyranny, he pretty much ensured his place as a major figure, if not THE major figure, in Vietnamese history. Even though the French had something to say about his declaration and the Americans put it to the test a decade later, his vision held true and Vietnam did eventually become a free and independent country under his steadfast and surprisingly wise and philosophical leadership. Uncle Ho, as he's known here, is a bit like the Nelson Mandela of Vietnam, which is why the Ho Chi Mihn Mausoleum and Museum is one of the most revered squares in all of Vietnam.
So revered is he, that against his wishes (he wanted to be cremated) the Vietnamese people built a mausoleum to display his embalmed body so everyone can pass by and pay their respects. Which we do. The whole process is a little eerie and rigid in a communist sort of way. No cameras, no bags, no talking. Guards with long, sharp bayonets affixed to their rifles sternly stand guard. We walk two by two around the gloomy cold room gazing at the white waxy body entombed behind glass and lights. Afterwards we wonder if indeed it is the actual body. Apparently, there is some controversy as to whether it has been replaced with a wax replica.
We tour Ho Chi Mihn's restored former home and then take in the very complete museum dedicated to sharing his life story and Vietnam's progress as a developing industrialized nation. It's all a bit overwhelming, much like everything in Hanoi, and we choose to read what comes easily to us and skip over what doesn't.
Maybe the market in the Old Quarter will be more sedate?
Who are we kidding?
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