Our bus driver leans on the horn constantly and tries to inch forward passing anything that gets in his way on either side of the road. We spend just as much time in the oncoming traffic lane as we do in our own. Everyone in front and behind us does the same. It is driving chaos and the center line in the road means absolutely nothing. If there is a gap, you go. Near head on misses are common, yet no one seems concerned. Everyone minds for themselves and trusts that anyone coming at them will get out of the way. There is an order to the chaos that only the locals understand. Jenn and I can only watch the road through our fingers with our hands clapped firmly over our eyes. Eventually, we see the rhythm of it all and trust our driver. However, not far from our minds is the information that there are over 11,000 road deaths per year. Driving accidents are the highest cause of death in Vietnam.
Outside, the scenery is rice paddies, narrow and tall homes, and industrial complexes all under a grey smoggy and foggy pallor. There is no calm and tranquility like Laos. Everywhere there is a busyness.
Ha Long Bay is an escape, and fifteen minutes out from the dock, swallowed up by the towering limestone karsts and emerald green waters, we all begin to feel a sense of calm once more.
1,969 limestones stacks (or small islands) dot Ha Long Bay making for a beautifully ethereal cruise. There are hidden coves and mysterious caves carved out in the karsts. Navigating the outcroppings takes some care, but our crew of four seems at ease and well experienced. There are also the many other boats to avoid as Ha Long Bay is an extremely popular destination and many people, like ourselves, hire a boat and sleep out in the bay.
Our boat, a converted junk boat, is deluxe, with private cabins, en suite baths, a dining area, and a rooftop lounge. We enjoy authentic Vietnamese cooking, consisting mostly of fresh seafood straight from the bay and sit up top snapping photos of the towering misty rock outcroppings.
There is a chance to kayak and Jenn and I make the most of the opportunity. We are dropped at a small floating village, handed dubious lifejackets, paddles and a kayak and set loose in the bay. We paddle through openings and get an up close view of the natural carved limestone.
It grows dark quickly and the curtain of fog lowers down on us. We realize that we are still a good distance from our boat and the kayak rental shop. And, which way is it again?!?! Just kidding....safety first! Jenn keeps us on course as we dodge boats and return to the rental place and our mildly worried team scouting for us in the dark.
We also have a chance to visit one of the more impressive caves carved out by water and time. It is a mammoth cavern divided into three sections. Big enough to hold a jumbo jet with room to spare, it is also a fine display of stalagmites and stalactites. We are not sure which this fellow below is though.... mite or tite?!?
After dinner, we play cards with Brett, Jenna and Lum, one of our crew members. He soon learns our game and beats us. Then it's to bed in our tiny cabin. The boat engines our silent as we circle our mooring in one of the small coves.
By 7:00 am the engines will wake us, thrumming again, as we set up through the heavy morning fog. Navigating by compass we travel back towards the docks. Let's hope we can hold on to this feeling of serenity as we return to Hanoi!
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