Wednesday, February 29, 2012

The Ancient City of Angkor (we knew there had to be monkeys somewhere!)!)

Once the most powerful Kingdom in South East Asia, the Khmer Empire (now Cambodia) was responsible for the vision and construction of the great city of Angkor, beginning in the year 802. Throughout this period, the Khmer empire built towering stone temples and striking palaces, all contained with high walls and surrounded by long, deep moats. When most think of Angkor, they conjure up images of the iconic Angkor Wat, however Angkor means "city" and a true city this was. All of Angkor is most awe inspiring when considering the advanced and complex architecture and marvelling at the ornate carvings and decorative towers. The resources and planning it would have taken to construct these monuments without the use of modern building tools and techniques boggles the mind. As our guide Bouna remarked before his departure, "How did this happen? Once we were the most powerful empire and built these incredible buildings and now we have and know so little?"

It was in the 15th century, after attacks from neighbouring Siam (now Thailand), that the city of Angkor was abandoned and left to weather time in the jungle. The western world's discovery of Angkor occurred when French Missionaries uncovered the lost city during the 19th century.

Our sole purpose for visiting the city of Siem Reap is to use it as a base for exploring these fantastic ruins. More than one hundred Angkorian monuments share 3000 square kilometers of space surrounding the Siem Reap area. Our three day pass we will only allow us to barely scratch the surface, but with our seasoned guide, Alann, at the helm, we are confident that we will see the best of the best.

We begin our first ancient city visit early in the morning in order to avoid the heat (we later learn this is impossible), at the famed Hindu temple of Angkor Wat (or, City Temple). With its lotus bud shaped central towers rising 43m to greet us as we enter through the east gate, it is easy to see why it is often dubbed the "eighth" Ancient Wonder of the World.









But, first we have dodge the temple guards! Don't look them in the eye or wave any food or drink around. They're vicious, these guards. And for goodness sake, don't try to touch them.







The best thing about visiting the Angkor temples is that, rather than viewing them afar, one is actually able to climb the stone steps and witness the architectural symmetry and design artistry up close.
















It is thrilling to walk around the temple and imagine life here over a thousand years ago. Every wall tells a story — quite literally. The bas relief carvings share all the history — fact and fiction! It was a privilege and a joy to bask in such seminal history.









In fact, it made us want to jump for joy!

Jenna!



Keir!




Brett!




Jenn!




Our tour of Angkor Wat takes over two hours as we make our way slowly (so as to appreciate the intricacies of the building and prevent death by sweating) through the three levels. We stop on the other side of the moat on our way to the west gate for a coconut water refresher and a few shots of the
reflecting pool.








By this point, our clothes are truly soaked through and we are all red faced and slippery with sweat. We duck back to the hotel during this hottest part of the day and take advantage of the time to cool off with a swim in the pool.

We reconvene mid-afternoon for our tour of Angkor Thom. Built at the end of the Ankgor period (late 12th/early 13th centuries), this massive walled city was the last and greatest capital of the Angkor era, home to an estimated 1 million inhabitants.




Eight meter high walls surround the complex, as does a 100 meter wide moat. The buildings were mainly made of wood and have disappeared over time. However, the religious stone monuments remain creating a stirring spectacle. Bayon, or the "Temple of the Smiling Buddhas", has a large Buddha face carved into all four sides of each of the 54 towers.










Strolling amongst the large welcoming faces is a highlight of the day for us as we work our way through the halls, walls, and stairs of this temple. The late afternoon sunlight makes the faces appear as if they are glowing.




















After leaving Bayon, we saunter over to walk the Terrace of the Elephants which is adorned with intricate carvings of the majestic beasts. The Terrace provides us access to Phimeanakas, the Royal buildings (including the King and Queen's bathing pools). From here, we walk out through the Terrace of the Leper King before heading out through Angkor Thom's magnificent south gate.













By this point, it is late afternoon and although it is cooling down, we are shattered by the day's heat. We had hopes of returning to Ankgor Wat for some sunset shots, but the low cloud cover assures us that there will be no sunset tonight.

Still feeling unwell, Keir and I find a quick Thai dinner and opt to head right to bed. The odd combination of heat exhaustion and a cold and cough has taken its toll. Still, we are overwhelmed with the sheer magnitude of history that we encountered on this day and look forward to sunrise at Angkor Wat tomorrow.

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