Vinaka vaka levu

Susan and Jeff, who we've met a few days earlier, invite us to return to their tropical splendor across the bay from Savusavu to spend the day kayaking and snorkeling off of their beach. Originally from New Mexico, Susan and Jeff moved to Fiji years ago, selling their custom lighting business and buying a property on which they built their dream home and, in front of the beach, a rental cottage. There are gardens and ponds, palm and pineapple trees. Their friends thought they were nuts to move to Fiji - they think their friends are nuts for staying in Albuquerque.












Hussein gives us a ride over to their place, a twenty minute drive around the basin of the bay. The highlight of the ride is that Hussein brings along his wife, Mrs. Hussein, for us to meet. She is a small, quiet and gracious lady with another glowing smile who sits in the front seat of the taxi and gently nods at her husband and his stories.

Susan and Jeff are having lunch when we arrive, so we head down to the beach and meet the workers from a nearby village who are doing various jobs. They are all very friendly, chatting and joking and go out of their way to help us. Before we know it, Panau (sp?) has pulled two kayaks down to the beach and loaded snorkel gear into the compartments.




We spend a couple of hours exploring the coral reefs and beach area where supposedly turtles like to graze on the sea grass. The sun is out and a steady breeze is up. Another ideal day. We seem to have cast off all the rain clouds and heavy weather, although it did rain all the previous night. We do not find any sea turtles, but we do see flying fish and iridescent blue starfish.




We return to the property to have a snack in the seaside beach hut, but first it is time to wash off the sea in the lush outdoor shower.


Panau brings us a green coconut which he has picked from a nearby tree and proceeds to expertly cut it open with his knife so we can drink the coconut water straight from the coconut. Which we do! So delicious!








Panau teaches us a Fijian saying which sounds something like, "vinaka vaka niu", which means "right as a coconut" or "all is good". The origins of this expression come from the simple fact that all parts of the coconut (and tree) are usable (and useful).




Hydrated with the fresh coconut water, we head back out to the beach. Jenn walks the shoreline looking for shells and I take the kayak out to find the river and then snorkel around the coral. As I'm paddling back, I encounter four young boys from the neighboring village playing on a rubber tire in the water. They paddle out to me flashing bright, white mischievous smiles. I pretend to splash them with my paddle which sets them giggling so I slow the kayak until they catch up and grab on to the rear handle. To their great delight, I pull them along in the water. (That's one way to build your paddling muscles!)

Soon, I have all four trailing behind on a kayak train. There's plenty more giggling. They ask me where I'm from and repeat my response - "Ah, Cah-nah-dah". With all four clinging to the boat, I'm going nowhere fast, so I splash them gently with my paddle until they let go and we wave goodbye. I confess to feeling a bit choked up - it was nice to be playing with kids again.

We return and rinse off in the pool and shower, do a quick change and hop into Jeff's truck for the ride back into town. Jeff and Susan are heading to a Rotary club meeting with all the other ex-pats. On some level, we know this would probably be an experience worth checking out, but we have to packing to do for our morning flight. We settle on meeting up later at the Copra Shed (Captain's Cafe) for dinner. More on that experience to come...