The good news is the Scubber (our nickname for the van after its license plate SKI BRD) is made of rubber apparently and endures the record rainfall just fine. We are surprised and pleased to awaken and find no leaks and the van still upright after a stormy night.
We should have expected that we were in for an interesting day when Graham (our campsite owner) informed us that the roads heading north to Paihia are flooded and that another guest who left early this morning had already returned with tales of washed out roads. "If you want to stay here another night I have a space!" he says.
"Nah", we say confidently. "How bad can it really be?"
We make a quick stop off at the Whangarei Falls only to discover the entire town seems to be there marveling at the enormous flow of water, "Never seen it like this" says one young man.
Doesn't look any different to us, but fair enough, we've never seen the falls before. When we do see the photo of what the falls typically look like it makes a bit more sense. Still, we think, how bad can it be?
It doesn't look great, we have to admit as we drive north and see the effects of the flooding which has washed over many roads and turned some homes into swimming pools. In a couple of spots, we have to slow and go through deep water on the roads, but the Scubby does just fine!
It is only when we reach the town of Kawakawa that we discover both roads that lead to the North are flooded over and no one is getting through. Cars are backed up for blocks.. We pull over to have a talk and decide what to do, but Jenn's tiny bladder is bursting so she trucks off to find a washroom. At the small grocery store that she pops into to ask where the closest toilet is, she is informed that it is right next door. "World famous toilets!" proclaims the cheery Indian fellow behind the counter. Umm, what?
Turns out he's not kidding. The Swedish artist Freidrich Hundertwasser who lived out 20 plus years of his life in Kawakawa created a most enjoyable restroom experience. After marveling at the facilities, Jenn zips back to insist that Keir also go.
With both roads impassable, we decide to head back to Whangarei and jump on the cell phone to ask Graham to hold a space for us at the camp site. After doing so, we get sidetracked at a sign for Kawiti Glow Worm Caves which have just reopened after an extensive flood clean up. Just our luck!
Into the caves we go with our guide Solomon. The water is still rushing through below us. The caves are filled with stalagmites and stalactites and...glow worms! The "worms" are not really worms, but rather a pupa of a small fly that use their glowing talents to trap prey. They illuminate the cave ceiling like stars. It is so calming to look up at them.
Out of the caves and back on the road, we head to our campsite but get lured into a false sense of information when we talk to the road crew at one of the flood sites who inform us that the northern roads are now open. Hooray! We turn Scubby around and head north again. Guess what?
The roads are still closed. Communication is not a New Zealand strongpoint as we can't even find a radio station that will report on what is happening. After waiting for an hour in another traffic line up, we are told by another helpful road crew fellow that our vehicle should make it through. We again pull into the town of Kawakawa only to be told by another fellow that there is "no way" our van is going to make it. So, AGAIN WE TURN AROUND. Frustrated and low of gas we head back - AGAIN - to Whangarei. Shoulda' stuck with the original plan!
We tried to ignore Graham's "I told you so" look when we check back into our site. However, we are glad that we called ahead because the small park is filled to the brim with other folks who couldn't get through to Paihia and Kerikeri (Yes, we were thinking that fate was on our side as the town is actually pronounced Keiry-Keiry).
Looking forward to a swim and a cold beer, our plans are yet again thwarted when Jenn discovers a large nail stuck in our rear tire. It's a slow leak but it is definitely getting flatter. Hmmm...change the tire or have the cold beer?
It's going to be a slope-y (not sloppy) night!
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