BIG trees

We've discovered that Jenn cannot sleep in (much to Keir's annoyance). Once she hears a noise (ANY noise) in the morning, she is up.

However, we still seem to be the last people to leave the campsite (ANY campsite) because we end up chatting to different co-campers. Today for example we didn't get on the road until about 11:30am having spent the morning pouring over maps of NZ with Frank and Eva who had many great suggestions for where to go and where to stay (and where not to get robbed). Whenever Frank mentions some story of theft Eva playfully laughs and rolls her eyes at him. We understand his concern though as he is carting around a very expensive bike in their van.

Side note: Frank and Eva were with us on the kiwi walk and were overjoyed to see one. Despite being avid campers and nature enthusiasts this was their first ever kiwi spotting. They claimed that we were their good luck charm, but we were sure that they were ours!

We could have spent days talking with them. Frank is so knowledgable about the native flora and fauna and he and Eva have travelled extensively (throughout the world and NZ).

We head north towards the Waipoua Forest which is home to some fabulous walks and to some very large and VERY old kauri trees. We start with a two hour hike to a lookout point (conveniently called Lookout Track). The trail heads up, up, up for the first hour, through some young kauri forests and manuka trees. It comes out at a high point that overlooks the entire forest and delivers us views all the way to the ocean.







Our next hike leads us to Te Matua Ngahere (or "Father of the Forest" in Maori). This tree is the second largest living kauri. At nearly 17 meters (yes METERS) around and 1500-2000 years old this is SOME TREE. We sit there for about 20 minutes taking in the impressive view. Nearby are the Four Sisters. Four inseparable kauris that have naturally grown this way. All around these trees are boardwalks so that you cannot step on the shallow and delicate roots. It is difficult to imagine trees this size having shallow roots!









Mere minutes down the road from the Kauri Walks we again pull over. This time the walk is only a few minutes long, but it takes us to the mighty Tane Mahuta (God of the Forest). Maori legend says that Tane Mahuta was the son of Mother Earth and Father Sky. He broke apart their eternal embrace bringing life and abundance to the earth. Tane Mahuta is over 2000 years old. Sitting in the presence of this great tree Jenn is almost brought to tears at all that the tree has lived through. A nearby woman comments along the same lines, saying, "I get the sense though, that he knows about everything that's gone on over that time".




From there it is a long and very winding drive through hills and pastures, by cows and shorn sheep, alongside several mountain groupings, and around mud slips of earth that spill out onto the road (aftermath of last Friday's cyclone). We are headed to Rawerie to try to make the 5:30 ferry to Kohukohu. We do, just in the nick of time!






Onwards we drive to Ahipara which is the entry point to the 90 Mile Beach and towards Cape Reinga (the most northerly part of the island). We find a super campsite, tuck into some quick noodles and leftovers and head on down to the beach to see the dunes and enjoy an evening swim!

We saw a a kiwi!

A real live kiwi! Just doing it's little kiwi thing. Actually they are bigger than you think. And fast!

It was at about 10:45pm and we were doing a night hike from our Department of Conservation campsite in Trounson Kauri Park. We'd already been very surprised and pleased as we'd seen eels (small, medium, and LARGE), crayfish, glowworms, and the giant snails. Fortunately we did not see any large weta - only small ones (they are the sometimes GIANT cricket-type insects that look terribleawfulnasty but are not).








I remember laughing to Keir that there is no way anyone could actually see a kiwi in the pitch dark of the forest night. "They must be kidding." I snickered, "It has got to be a money grab for the folks who run the 'official' night walk" (that we were officially NOT on).




We had bumped into our new German friends Frank and Eva coming the opposite direction and were whisper-chatting on the kiwi spotting boardwalk when we heard a rustling in the bushes. Couldn't be, we thought. With our dull red lights (so we wouldn't hurt their sensitive eyes) we started scanning the bush, and there, just plucking along, was the brown kiwi. I had to clamp my hand over my mouth so I wouldn't squeal with excitement (I just get SO excited!). The four of us tracked it, sometimes slowly sometimes quickly, along the boardwalk. It was completely nonplussed by us which is part of the problem - they are not predator wary. BTW the photo below is NOT ours! I'm not sure how anyone gets a photo of these little creatures given that they are nocturnal and tend to live in PITCH BLACK FORESTS!!!!)



Returning to the camper van and snuggling down into bed I wondered how I was ever going to get to sleep knowing that there actually were kiwis out there! I could hear them calling as I closed my eyes.

Tyres, Invitations and Good People

The great flood of 2011 forces a change of plans.

Instead of heading north along the east coast (where roads are still closed due to water covering the highways) we buck the trend and head west along Highway 14 to Dargaville, with a plan to head north up the west coast and then circle around to the Bay Of Islands once the flooding chaos is all dried up. Apparently, word on the highway is that Paihia only has enough fresh water for a day and half — if so, then we're avoiding that way until the flood mess is all sorted.

But first we have a nail in our tire to deal with.









And some fun at the camp ground...

We switch to the spare and call in on Dez of All About Tyres to fix us up. (Thankfully, he's open on Sundays!) He and his father run a small tire/bait shop in Kamo just outside of Whangarei and he's expecting us, after a pre-call from Andrew of Cruzy Campers. "The only day we close is Christmas Day, " says Dez, examining the nail gunned tire. "I'll have you fixed up in no time."

And he does. When we mention we're heading west to avoid the flooding, he chuckles and brings us into his office to show us photos on his computer. "That's me house, there." He shows us an image of a home swallowed up by water. "Me and the family were sleeping and at some point around 2:00 in the morning, I noticed the sheets were wet and water was flowing onto the bed. Uh oh, I says. That's when we decided it was time to leave. My son was splashing about in the living room, having a lovely time!"

His house is devastated by the flood and yet Dez seems completely unfazed (could it be shock!?). "We moved over to my parent's house. They're going to be surprised when they come back from holiday next week and find us living there!"

For a mere $30 NZ, Dez removes the nail and seals our tire up. He also repairs the spare, which we notice is leaking at the valve. (Good thing we find this out now...)

Dez talks away about his business. He's on call 24 hours and gets called in at all times to help people out with tire problems. He seems perfectly content to be doing what he is doing — no complaints or sighs about being on call 24 hours or being open 7 days a week. He takes his time, does a careful job. He enjoys helping people out and chatting as he does so. He also likes to catch very big fish.

Outside the New World supermarket, we meet Peter and Margueritte, breeders of Borzoi dogs and who just happen to have three of them, along with a whippet and a bull staffordshire terrier, laid out in their custom made kennel trailer as they head home from a dog show. We admire their pups and in no time, the couple has whipped out a piece of paper with their full address and phone number. They invite us to stay at their place outside of Rotorua when we're down that way.

"It'll save you on camping fees," says Margueritte. "We have lots of land and a fresh water stream — you can just pull your camper up and stay with us."

Who are these people?

Of course we'll do it. It's all about going with the flow and if someone invites us to come and stay, that means we have to go — don't fight what comes your way, we say. We have a growing file of addresses, phone numbers and eMail contacts in our camper's front seat storage box. Did we mention that the New Zealanders were friendly?

Finally, we get ourselves on the winding road headed for Dargaville. Jenn drives and is pushed now and then by tanker trucks making their milk run (this is dairy country) which ride up the back bumper of the Scubby. We find places to pull over and let them pass, tooting their horn in thanks when we do so (at least we think they're thanking us?)

The landscape is green pasture and hills, dotted with cows and shorn sheep.

We arrive in Dargaville and stop at the information centre. The government run i-Site that used to be there was closed a couple of years ago, so a cheerful lady has taken it upon herself to open her own information centre. On display next door is the woodwork of her husband who carves from the giant kauri trees. Again, another New Zealander totally content with her life situation. "I meet all sorts of people from all over and I get to help them," she gushes. Due to all the flooding, she and her husband have missed out on a three day boat cruise around the Bay Of Islands. Instead of complaining about what should have been, she's opens her information centre and spends her long weekend helping people like us.

She recommends places to go and visit along the west coast and northern tip and up we go, heading first to Trounson Kauri Park which is home to the large kauri trees which date back some 1200 to 2000 years. We set up our camp at a DOC site (Department of Conservation), have a late lunch and then do a tranquil 40 minute walk through the forest.








We are the only other people at the site except for a Britz camper van with three German lads playing rugby, but over the next few hours more people arrive and by 7:00 p.m., it is almost full — campers coming in for the night hike and a chance to spot fat eels in the creeks and maybe the elusive kiwi bird.

The driver of the red camper beside us an unkempt man in his early 40's with stringy hair and dressed like a bike courier — black shorts, top and ball hat. At first, Jenn and I wonder what we're in for and yet Frank turns out to be the most good natured and informative man, chatting with us from the moment he opens his door. He and his partner, Eva, have lived in New Zealand for the past 18 years, having come from Germany, but they have left their home in Christchurch, looking for somewhere else to settle down on the island. Somewhere with work. Somewhere cheaper, with more friendly people. They have been on the road for nine months. We can't imagine there is a place in New Zealand where people are not friendly, but he feels NZ is slowly changing.

"Everything is money here now. Greedy people. Prices are going up for food, for attractions. It didn't use to be like that. I don't think it's right."

Jenn and I have to agree. We are surprised at how much food costs here in NZ and the fact that all tourist attractions have some sort of fee attached. Franks says this is the New NZ. "It's a feeding frenzy of money, like the stoats when they smell blood!"

We soon lean that Frank is a thrifty man and takes pleasure in finding a bargain — whether it is cheap potatoes at the Pak 'n Save, a secret campsite with low fees or a way to see a tourist attraction without paying. He is also obsessed about getting robbed (something to do with the bike he carries about with him in the van) and shares with us all the places to watch our valuables.

He's entertaining and genuine and so knowledgable about New Zealand. A naturalist at heart, he regales us with stories about the forests and monterey pines, about eels and the birds of New Zealand.

He encourages us to do the night walk through the forest, to see the weta, the bats, the snails and maybe, just maybe, if we're lucky, the kiwi bird.

Our Saviour

Yeah so, it might be a bit of a pricy long distance call for you all, but, I'm thinking it's worth an inquiry!

The Great Flood of 2011

Flooded out! New Zealand experiences their worst flooding since 2007 and we're right smack dab in the middle of it!

The good news is the Scubber (our nickname for the van after its license plate SKI BRD) is made of rubber apparently and endures the record rainfall just fine. We are surprised and pleased to awaken and find no leaks and the van still upright after a stormy night.

We should have expected that we were in for an interesting day when Graham (our campsite owner) informed us that the roads heading north to Paihia are flooded and that another guest who left early this morning had already returned with tales of washed out roads. "If you want to stay here another night I have a space!" he says.

"Nah", we say confidently. "How bad can it really be?"

We make a quick stop off at the Whangarei Falls only to discover the entire town seems to be there marveling at the enormous flow of water, "Never seen it like this" says one young man.




Doesn't look any different to us, but fair enough, we've never seen the falls before. When we do see the photo of what the falls typically look like it makes a bit more sense. Still, we think, how bad can it be?




It doesn't look great, we have to admit as we drive north and see the effects of the flooding which has washed over many roads and turned some homes into swimming pools. In a couple of spots, we have to slow and go through deep water on the roads, but the Scubby does just fine!












It is only when we reach the town of Kawakawa that we discover both roads that lead to the North are flooded over and no one is getting through. Cars are backed up for blocks.. We pull over to have a talk and decide what to do, but Jenn's tiny bladder is bursting so she trucks off to find a washroom. At the small grocery store that she pops into to ask where the closest toilet is, she is informed that it is right next door. "World famous toilets!" proclaims the cheery Indian fellow behind the counter. Umm, what?

Turns out he's not kidding. The Swedish artist Freidrich Hundertwasser who lived out 20 plus years of his life in Kawakawa created a most enjoyable restroom experience. After marveling at the facilities, Jenn zips back to insist that Keir also go.











With both roads impassable, we decide to head back to Whangarei and jump on the cell phone to ask Graham to hold a space for us at the camp site. After doing so, we get sidetracked at a sign for Kawiti Glow Worm Caves which have just reopened after an extensive flood clean up. Just our luck!

Into the caves we go with our guide Solomon. The water is still rushing through below us. The caves are filled with stalagmites and stalactites and...glow worms! The "worms" are not really worms, but rather a pupa of a small fly that use their glowing talents to trap prey. They illuminate the cave ceiling like stars. It is so calming to look up at them.







Out of the caves and back on the road, we head to our campsite but get lured into a false sense of information when we talk to the road crew at one of the flood sites who inform us that the northern roads are now open. Hooray! We turn Scubby around and head north again. Guess what?

The roads are still closed. Communication is not a New Zealand strongpoint as we can't even find a radio station that will report on what is happening. After waiting for an hour in another traffic line up, we are told by another helpful road crew fellow that our vehicle should make it through. We again pull into the town of Kawakawa only to be told by another fellow that there is "no way" our van is going to make it. So, AGAIN WE TURN AROUND. Frustrated and low of gas we head back - AGAIN - to Whangarei. Shoulda' stuck with the original plan!

We tried to ignore Graham's "I told you so" look when we check back into our site. However, we are glad that we called ahead because the small park is filled to the brim with other folks who couldn't get through to Paihia and Kerikeri (Yes, we were thinking that fate was on our side as the town is actually pronounced Keiry-Keiry).

Looking forward to a swim and a cold beer, our plans are yet again thwarted when Jenn discovers a large nail stuck in our rear tire. It's a slow leak but it is definitely getting flatter. Hmmm...change the tire or have the cold beer?

It's going to be a slope-y (not sloppy) night!

What the what?

For real. What is up with New Zealanders and:

* Their love of late 80's early 90's soft rock (we've heard more Tom Cochrane, Bare Naked Ladies, Shania Twain and Wham! than anyone might like to!)

* Their aversion to spicy food (spice lovers take note: bring your own chilies!)

* Their overuse of plastic bags (I thought that NZ was very mindful of the environment, but the way the plastic is tossed around here that assumption is blown out of the water)

* The fact that Diet Pepsi doesn't exist here (in Fiji though it does and is called Pepsi Light). Coke owns it all down here in NZ!

* Not wearing shoes ANYWHERE...when driving, when walking (and not just on the beach), when cooking in the shared camping facilities, when in a restaurant or picking up take-out, when in ANY WASHROOM (eewwww!!!!!!)

* Their love of mullets and rattails. Yeah, it's a making a comeback with the fellas down here.

In The Eye Of The Cyclone

We find ourselves in the midst of a cyclone. Stories abound of 150 mile per hour winds and 200 mm of rain. Andrew from Cruzy Campers calls us on the cell phone and advises us to park the camper away from the coast and pointing INTO THE WIND to avoid we toppling over while sleeping. We're not sure if he's kidding or not..?

The wind from the sea begins howling outside our camper early in the morning and by the time we get up, most of the campers in our Orewa Top 10 site are packing up and pulling out. The rainy, windy weekend forecast has put a damper on everyone's beach plans.

After a quick breakfast of toast and coffee and an hour of WiFi time, we too hit the road, stopping at the $2 store for some camper van essentials (plastic sorting baskets, tea towels, batteries and suction hooks for hanging things) and then a few basics at the grocery store. When we come out, the rain begins — slowly at first and then picking up momentum as we drive out of town, until this very moment, as I sit and type this, it is screaming down, and has been for the past twelve hours. Tonight, after a mediocre Indian meal, we go to see The Kings Speech and throughout the movie we can hear the rain drumming on the roof of the theatre. It's a decent movie, a perfect "British grit and stiff upper lip" tale told in the classic Oscar appealing manner. The Weinstein brothers know how to please their audience.

We drive along the north island east coast in the building wind and rain. The van sways in the wind and I have to keep both hands on the wheel to ensure we don't get blown off the road. Outside of Warkworth, we stop at a Honey Farm where they produce all kinds bee products, from propolis and royal jelly to Manuka, Clover and Tawari honey (derived from the Tawari tree) which we buy. There are even free samples to try. Yum! Behind plexiglass, on the one wall, you can watch the bees in their hive busy at work. We try and spot the queen bees.















The rain now relentless, we decide to push on for Whangarei, where Andrew has lined up an auto shop for us to replace our burnt out brake light. We stop at the i-Site (still goof folks) who direct us to the auto shop as well as a camp site and a laundromat and the movie theatre. We're hunkering down for the storm of the century!

i-Site recommends a camp park just out side of town by a waterfall (and on high ground). Once our brake light is replaced, we drive up and check in. Graham, the owner, gives us a personal tour of the grounds in the pouring rain. Nice fellow.

A rainy afternoon is the perfect time to do laundry and we have plenty — the bed sheets we've been given are in good shape, but smell funny. "Like a hairy, sweaty man," Jenn says. They don't smell great, I agree.



It's throwing it down out there, right now. The van is rocking in the wind. Jenn is saying her prayers that the river doesn't overflow!

We try finding the laundromat closer to our campsite, but get lost and go in search of the first one only to find it's closed when we arrive. The owner directs us to the other one (which we realize we passed right by about ten minutes ago... sigh...)

We do a quick laundry and struggle to keep everything dry (including ourselves) running back and forth from the van to the laundromat. Then it's back into town for our Indian dinner and to catch the movie.

We are realizing that the camper feels a whole lot smaller when you don't have your main living room — the outdoors! The whole day has been an exercise in keeping things dry and contained.

We'll sit and sway here in Whangarei and wait out the storm. The good news is that this cyclone will blow in and then blow everything out, leaving some pretty fine weather on the other side. That should be perfect for the Bay of Islands which is just north of us and we hope to get there in the next few days.

Tiritiri with Keirikeiri

Penguins, takahe, and stitchbirds, oh my!

Today was our trip to the open bird sanctuary island of Tiritiri Matangi. The Department of Conservation asks that everyone who boards the one and only ferry that goes to the island daily, scrub off their boots, inspect their bags, and examine their clothes before boarding the ferry. Why the high security? All in an effort to keep the island pest-free of mice, rats, possums, hedgehogs, stoats as well as seeds and weeds. This island is one of the worlds most successful volunteer conservation projects reforesting and repopulating some of the rarest bird and tree species in the entire world and it is clear that they take their jobs very seriously. Twelve of New Zealand's endangered birds and three reptile species have been re-introduced here.

Tiritiri Matangi means "tossed by the wind" in Maori, which is fitting as the highest winds (180 miles an hour) in all of New Zealand have been recorded here. There is a limit to the number of visitors that can visit daily (150, the number that the ferry holds — the charge to them which is split between 360 Discovery Cruises ferry line and Tiri conservationists). The ferry actually comes from Auckland and makes one stop, Gulf Harbour, where we board (saving ourselves $30 or more).




The dock at Tiritiri is surrounded by stunning blue waters. We can just about see Hobb's Beach (the only "beach" on the island) and let me tell you, it looks inviting! If we didn't have rare birds to see, we'd be parking it there all day!




The warden greets us all as we exit the ferry and gives us a stern talking to about the guidelines before we all head out. Some have elected to spend the day wandering the island on their own, while others (us included) have chosen to pay an extra $5 for a guided walk with one of the incredibly knowledgable volunteers. We are assigned to Kathy's group and along with 4 other people, start out along one of the treks that head to the lighthouse (one of the oldest in New Zealand and still in its original condition).



Kathy is a school teacher who, in her spare time (remember summer break is just coming to a close here!), volunteers with Tiritiri. She is lovely and packed to the brim with incredible information. I would have loved to have been a kid in her class!



First stop is the little blue penguin nesting boxes. Yup! Penguins! Little blue's! Right off the bat! The penguins are more active in the evening, however when we lift the lid on one of the boxes, there is one inside — just hanging out! I do everything I can not to squeal with delight (holding in the squeals is a job I have to be mindful of all day it turns out — don't want to scare all those rare birds off!). Our group moves off and due to my enchantment with the little blue, I don't even realize they've gone until I hear Kathy's voice come up behind me, "Oh there you are! We thought we lost you!"



Along the costal walk we see incredibly old Pohutukawa trees and Kathy tells us all the birds that nest in their roots. Some of the trees on this island have been estimated to be 1000 years old!




Then it is our first spotting of the day — by Keir no less — a kingfisher. Soon after come the Tui spottings. Then the North Island Saddleback's or "tieke" (driven so close to extinction that only a few pairs were left when Tiritiri first came into being) who have a caramel colored "saddle" all across their, you guessed it, backs. We hear the Whiteheads before we see them. They have a sweet little call. Then I spot a massive bird butt in the tree above us. Turns out it is one that they would call a "pigeon" but this is no pigeon that we can tell. The Maori used to eat them (and nearly ate them to extinction). The Stitchbirds (hihi) sounds like a sewing machine when they call (thus the name) and we get a terrific sighting of a female (and later in the day a male). The stitchbirds are all banded — at one point there were a mere 5 left. In the world! We suss out the rare (aw, heck, they are ALL rare on this island!) North Island Robins (that don't look anything like our North American red-breasts) and fantails. Only the Rifleman elude us (who looks like a little flying egg due to a lack of tail). We can hear them, oh yes, but we can't see them!






Our tour was supposed to take around 2 hours. 3 & 1/2 hours later, our group shows up at the lighthouse where the extremely inquisitive Takahe are said to hang out. We eat our packed lunch quickly (you have to bring everything you'd like to the island as there is nothing here, not even freshwater) and have a scout about. Still no Takahe. This is the only place they can be found, so we are hopeful. We hike up to the lighthouse to soak up the incredible view and realize that if we don't want to get stuck on the island (and have to pay the $400 water taxi fee back) we have to head back down (via a different trail of course!). No Takahe sightings for us. We turn to head back when, in amongst the trees I spot (I have to say, I had many good "spots" today and felt especially proud that Kathy the expert kept commending my finds)... where was I?

Oh yes, my preening....ha ha....no.... I was on about the Takahe. Yes, well, there they were, a pair, probably hiding a baby nearby too, under a tree having a little cool off. They are so colorful, the males more so, and oh were we pleased to have seen them!




There would be no swim for us at Hobb's Beach today! With the ferry leaving in nearly 1/2 hour, we trek down the Wattle trail back to the wharf. On the way down we see the Kakariki (a colorful, and large, kind of parakeet) and the Brown Teal Ducks (the...you guessed it...rarest duck in the world). The lady beside me at the time started going on about the fact that there were three of them — CLEARLY they were the Father, Son and the Holy Ghost (that's ANOTHER, story that one!!!).




The only creatures we didn't see were the Tuatara, the Spotted Kiwi and the Kokako. The Tuatara are those ancient dinosaur beasties and they only come out in the evening (as do the Spotted Kiwi). As for the Kokako, we're not sure. Perhaps a week long volunteer stint on the island would allow us the opportunity? We're seriously thinking about that!

We make it back to the dock in time and see some kind of giant fish in the water below. Rays, dolphins and Orca are known to come up close to the shore here, so Keir reaches for the binoculars and — yipes! — the eye piece cover falls down the pier into the water. They float, but it appears they are now goners. Some helpful volunteers who are also waiting to board the ferry commiserate. Perhaps Mary Anne, the manager, can mail us a pair of covers she found recently? Just as we are about to board, we notice that the tide has pulled the covers close to the ferry. Is there time?!?! Keir empties his pockets and, with the ferry captain watching (and chatting to him) dives into the water via some random set of stairs off the pier. Yay! The covers are retrieved and with the whole ferry watching! A quick change into dry clothes on the ferry and all was as right as a coconut!

Our time on Tiritiri was fabulous and we'd go back again in a heartbeat, and perhaps we will!




Feeling tired and hungry after a long day walking out in the sun, we grab some dinner from the Noodle Canteen (you chose your noodle type, veg, and protein and they "wok it up" for you) and head to Red Beach (nothing red there as far as we can tell!) to park our handy lawn chairs and snack whilst watching the crazy surf kayakers and race paddlers (they use their arms only!?!?). We let them do all the work as we enjoy our tasty treats.




We opt to spend night # 2 in the Cruzy (now nicknamed Scubby...after our license plate "Ski Bird") at the Top 10 in Orewa again. This time we luck out on a flat pad with prime ocean views. De-luxe!




Tomorrow, it's full speed ahead (on the left side of the road, of course) into more of the northern part of the island.

Cruisin' In The Cruzy

"I thought you'd be older," are the first words Andrew of Cruzy Campers says to us when we meet him outside our hotel this morning. He has driven straight from Christchurch to deliver our camper van and after dropping it off and giving us the run of things, will hop on a plane back to Christchurch, the home base for Cruzy Campers.

He expects us to be older because we had explained to him in an eMail that we are in the middle of a life shift, something he and his wife did several years ago as well. "But, I was fifty when we did it. You're much younger. That's good. Very good!"

He grins. He's another one of these likable New Zealanders. Short and stocky with a mischievous gleam in his eye, he is a ringer for Bob Hoskins. A Scot by birth, Andrew worked in real estate until a couple of sudden losses — a death and illness in the family — made him realize he was working himself into an early grave too. "You're a long time dead," is his favorite expression. Thus the change and now the new business, running a small and very personable camper van company. He and his wife, also a Jenny, run operations from November to April and then whisk themselves off to Australia for five months to cruise about in a camper van of their own.

He talks to us. And talks to us. The parking meter man comes by and chastises us for being parked so long across the street from our hotel while we chat about Fiji and world travel and his family. Andrew puts coins in the meter to keep him happy.




He gives us the run down on the van. A few quirks and tricks to note, but basically it's straightforward. His wife Jenny stocks all the camper vans and ours is filled with her flourishes — good kitchen gear, a clothes line and pegs, hot water bottles (??) and extra linen. Andrew settles at the camper's table to do the paperwork and talks some more. A few more stories to share (and then a few more...did we mention the man can talk!?!) and then he's off with his bags to catch his flight. "See you in Christchurch!" he says.

Only once, heading out of Auckland, do we almost smack up the van by driving on the wrong side of the road. Not too bad, we figure. Jenn catches my right for left quickly and we're righted (or lefted) again and barreling down onto the highway as we head out of town. To the northland!

We take Highway 1 until just before the toll road, veering off at the town of Silverdale and heading back towards the coast road. The Cruzy Van handles fine. It's a diesel so it has some good muscle for going up the hills. The day is fine, lots of sun and plenty of breeze. It feels good to be out of Auckland and on the road.

We pull in to the town of Orewa for a snack and pester the lady at the i-Site information booth (our new favorite hangout) for a good place to pick up groceries. She directs us to the New World down the street where we first stock up on fruits and veggies from a Chinese grocery across the road and then staples from the supermarket. We hit the dollar store to buy a shower bucket for all our toiletries and a $2 straw cowboy hat for me.




"Oi" says Jenn, "I'm riding with Kowboy Keir now am I?". There are a lot of seniors in Orewa, we notice. It's like Barrie, a retirement town with a beach north of the big city.

In fact, we are surprised at how developed things are here. We'd expected a more rural experience, but it full of Pizza Huts, surf shops and very large homes. We are only a hour outside of Auckland, so perhaps it is to be expected. It is also a beach town with a very fine, long beach, which seems to attract families and young people who want to surf.

With the groceries stocked in our little fridge, we head along the Whangapararoa Peninsula to find out more about visiting Tiritiri Matangi Island and Bird Sanctuary. There is a ferry that goes from there, but Jenn is reading in the guide book that it only runs on Wednesdays and Sundays.

The Peninsula is also very developed, with some stunning views of the bay and back at Auckland. At the end, where the ferry runs, we find a marina full of some massive yachts.






The ferry station is closed as we suspected, so we drive back into Orewa, back to the i-Site Information Centre to check on a campsite for the night and to see if there are any other boats to TiriTiri. And we're in luck! Jenn's poor guidebook skills help us for change as the lady at the I-Site informs us that boats run FROM Wednesday TO Sunday and she can books us in for tomorrow! She also sets us up with a camping spot at the Top 10 Camping Site just down the road. As I said, we love the i-Sites! Good folk!

Our campsite brings back memories of travelling with the family around Europe in a camper van. Finding your site, checking out the showers and bathrooms for cleanliness, trying to create some semblance of privacy between you and your music cranking neighbours.. It is fun though and we spend an hour or so just "sussing" as the expression is here — getting the camper all set up, our clothes laid out, the food stored. It begins to feel like home.





Sussed, we go for a swim in the ocean and try some body surfing. The water is cool and refreshing, ideal for swimming. We come back and shower up in the very clean showers, have a beer (Summer Ale - a gingery concoction from Monteiths - from our very cold fridge and then set up our outdoor cooker and make dinner — mushroom burgers on the outdoor cooker, corn on the cob boiled on the van's stove and a fresh salad to boot! Add a little outdoor ambience to accompany the meal — we're campin'!







After dinner, we wash up, go for another long walk along the beach with the tide out and then come back and swat all the mozzies in the van before reading the guidebooks for tomorrow and testing out the bed.

Yes, we're cruising New Zealand. Day one. And it's a good start. As Jenn says though, "I want to know who's going to have the first "VAN-trum."

We'll let you know...