Friday, September 30, 2011

Finally, Yosemite Valley (and Glacier Point)

Our day begins early with a white scrawny coyote scampering across our path as we head out of our campsite. Could it be the fierce competition from the 3.5 million people that visit this park annually that brings him so close to the camp ground? Let's hope not.

We skip breakfast at our site and pack up, determined to beat the rush into Yosemite Valley. We figure once we are down there we can pull up at a picnic area and make brekkie... unless there are park rules about that too!? These uptight Yosemite rangers....

The drive down into the Valley is not too busy. That said, we are driving on a two lane separated highway. Alright, it's a road. To deal with all the traffic in the valley, the paved loop is a two lane byway. You can't go too fast around here — don't want any bear accidents (there are poster boards in every spot a bear has been hit this season with the date it was killed and an all caps message "SPEEDING KILLS BEARS").

We don't want to do that, so we take it slow. This is easy given there are very few cars on the road. Our early start is paying off!

The big highlights in Yosemite Valley are the towering El Capitan granite rock face, the equally impressive granite Half Dome, the gushing waterfalls and rivers and well, the stunning picturesque wilderness. Formed by receding glaciers thousands of years ago, Yosemite Valley is some of mother nature's finest work.















We start out below the well worn trail to the Lower Yosemite Falls. Back in May when we did the LA to Washington State coastal drive, we remember seeing a photo of these Falls (there are three tiers to it) at the height of the full spring run off. The water is much slower now, but still makes it way down the 2,425 feet of granite with panache. Given that it is around 8:30 a.m. when we are there, we have the view pretty much to ourselves — Bonus!




We pull in at a picnic area at the base of the looming rock wall El Capitan (7,569ft) and proceed to ogle the climbers through our binoculars in between spoonfuls of cereal. The picnic area is a launch point for many of the day climbers. Keir asks one group how long it takes to climb El Capitan? "About 2 days for most," says an accented European climber. "But there is a movie about two world class climbers who did it in 2 1/2 hours. I watched it. They are monkeys," he says with a grin.




We stop a few more times along the side of the road to gaze upwards at the cliffs and snap more photos of the ever photogenic scenery. The big story of the day is about an emergency evacuation off El Capitan the day previous. Lucky for one of the climbers that fell, he only lost a few fingers.




Out of the valley we go, just missing the rush and up to Glacier Point (7,214ft) to view the Valley from above and the famed Half Dome (8,842ft) at eye level. It is indeed an impressive chunk of granite. Hike-able in a very long day trek, one now needs a permit to do so as it gets very busy. From up on high, we can even get a nice view of Vernal and Nevada Falls (also on the famed Mist Trail hike).















We opt to lunch atop the Sentinel Dome and hike the 1.1 mile trail in (alright UP) to the top. It is another impressive view — we are able to see both the Half Dome and El Capitan in one go. The swift breeze keeps it cool.















Talking over our plan for the next few days, we decide to make a pit stop at Curry Village back down in the Valley to shower up — then we can stay out for another few days if we choose to. There are no line ups for the shower house (which is deluxe as it provides towels, shampoo and soap) and the roads in the valley are fairly clear of traffic. It seems to be paying off that we have come to Yosemite during the middle of the week and at this time of year!

Our new site at Crane Flat, # 228, is a private oasis tucked back away from everyone. It is lovely and surprisingly flat. We make an early dinner (because Jenn is ravenous) and then campfire it up in our private site.

It's cold at night. Did we mention that? Brrrr.. Enough of these high altitudes!



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