Ma-Rye-Ah

Maria Island (pronounced as above) has come highly recommended to us by Keir's friend Torin's cousin Jo. We briefly met Jo a few years back when she visited Canada and spent time with Torin in Toronto. Born in Tasmania and an outdoor adventurer, Jo graciously emailed us a fantastic list of some of her favourite places in Tassie.

We arrived in Triabunna late in the afternoon on Tuesday and were relieved to find that the information center was still open. The kind ladies there filled us in and got us sorted. We left with information on the National Parks, a list of all the free camping areas up the east coast and a visual taster of what awaits on Maria Island. With a varied history that included an island penitentiary, farming, industrial production and even a failed resort village, Maria Island has our curiosity peaked. As a National Park it now is home to about 130 species of birds and several species of creatures that, were at one time, or still are, endangered.

Triabunna is where the ferry to Maria Island departs from. Taking the ferry is an expensive option but we can rent decent bikes from them as well. The cheaper taxi service runs spottily at this time of year. We decide that we are sufficiently intrigued by the island to fork out the cash and make the dash! If we had longer here we would undoubtedly spend several nights on the island, but we'll have to settle for one day.

We picked a glorious one too. John, the captain, welcomes us aboard saying "Well, did you ever pick the day! There are not many days when the ocean is as calm and still as it is now. It'll make for great wildlife spotting along the way".




When Keir inquires as to how long the crossing tends to take, John replies with "How long do you WANT it to take?". There is flexibility we learn. There are only 4 other passengers besides us so John chats with us all. When the first dolphins are spotted, Johns assistant slows the boat so that we can get a good view. The water is so clear and John invites us all up to the very front of the boat where he promises the best viewing. He's not kidding.








Maria island is described in our information pamphlet as "an intriguing Treasure Island of sheer dolerite bluffs, patterned cliffs, historic ruins steeped in tales of imprisonment and folly, and beautiful sweeping bays drenched in brilliant light". Sure. We'll take that!








We arrive at the island just about 11am. People and bikes loaded off, we stop first at the Parks museum where we get our first stamp in our National Parks "passport" book. From there we decided to head over to the Fossil Cliffs where enormous limestone rocks are literally entirely composed of 240 million year old fossils. Eurydesma (mussel-like shells) are visible, as are sea fans, scallop shells, coral type creatures and sea lilies. We clamber down to the waters edge to look up at the cliffs (and the Cape Barren Geese which look like something out of the 80's with their day-glo beaks, their red stockinged legs and their wide black "shoes").




We ride (alright PUSH) our bikes up as far as we can along the Bishop and Clerk mountain path stopping at the top of the incredibly high and visually striking sea cliffs to gaze out at the Tasman Sea.











We spot our first Foresters kangaroos and a few Bennets wallabies along this stretch, but are unable to get the camera out in time before they bound away. We get a little lost and end up on the circuit track to the reservoir (built by convicts in 1831 - the first convict era) before righting ourselves and heading out with the intention of making it down to the isthmus. We almost do but are sidetracked by the numerous diversions: Foresters kangaroos up close, wallabies, wombats, a kind of parrot like bird...and that is not even mentioning the crescent shapes of the glowing white quartzite beaches (offset beautifully by the crystalline waters).











The trail eventually turns to sand and the riding gets tough. We make it as far as we can (just about French Farm) before consulting the watch and consenting that we indeed do have to turn around and head back if we'd like to visit the Painted Cliffs and make the only return boat in time.

We hit the Painted Cliffs at the perfect sunlight time which highlights their uniqueness all the more. These cliffs are sandstone bluffs sculpted by rain, wind, sun and water. Their colours are swirled with iron oxide, making them resemble big puffs of meringue.























Can you spot the shark head in the sandstone below?




With luck we make it back to the wharf with just enough time to again capture the perfect light on one of the derelict buildings from the islands time as a penitentiary.











Five thirty is when we arrive back in Triabunna and already the light is fading fast. We head up further up the coast in the dark (driving carefully so as not to add to the roadkill along the side of the highway) and find the free camping site at the Mayfield Bay. We can hear the waves crashing outside on the beach, but we can't see it! A surprise for the morning!

Observations

Loretta from Tasmania Campervan Rentals picks us up at our hotel just before 10:30am. This was ideal as it allowed us plenty of time beforehand to walk to Battery Point and nosh at the renowned Jackman & McRoss bakery/cafe.




We barely know a thing about Tasmania and already we have been wooed by the high quality food on offer. I have a spinach, tomato, caramelized onion and feta tart and Keir has poached eggs with spinach aioli on a toasted baguette. The cappuccinos are punchy.

Loretta shuttles us back out to the airport area where their base is and introduces us to Julie who is in charge of getting us on the road today. We watch a short video (a bit different than our experience with Cruzy!) about the campervan and how to use it, and get all the paperwork sorted. Julie then takes us out to the van to go through it in person.

The van has a different configuration than Scubby. The bed is in back of this one and the kitchen area up front. We're interested to see if it feels/works differently. It's also stick shift. Soon enough however, we are all kitted out and on our way to Richmond, the charming heritage village nearby.

In Richmond we discover that there is something wrong with the lock on the sliding door though. To the best of our figuring we guess that there is a key broken off inside of it, preventing our key from a)fitting into the lock and, b)it actually locking.

We call back to Loretta, and the maintenance fellow Graham gives us a few suggestions to try. It's a no-go though, so back we head to the base where Graham gets the tools out and indeed discovers that the lock is jammed with a broken key. It ends up being our very own trusty tweezers that remove the piece of key and, finally sorted, we head out for real - this time towards the East Coast - and Triabunna - where we can access Maria (pronounced Ma-Rye-uh) Island.

Some Observations Thus Far:
*Tasmanians have an even drier sense of humor than Kiwi's
*The roadkill is infinitely different (we have thus far only been able to identify wallabies - everything else is an unknown - maybe some echidnas, wombats and ????)
*The trees we have seen thus far are tall and sticky looking. Forests of them look almost bare and airy. The terrain looks scrubby.
*The roads here are all (so far) perfectly paved

Tassie, here we are!

When faced with the "where should we go next" question our last few weeks of touring around NZ, Tasmania was the first place I put forth.

"We'll surely have to fly to Australia anyway to get a flight to Argentina" I put forth, "so, we're practically there and we both are curious about it and they have great hiking and not a lot of people and interesting wildlife and.."

"O.K., O.K." says Keir "I get the picture. Tasmania sounds really good- IF it's affordable".

Thankfully, we found a flight that, when we added in a few weeks in Tasmania, barely affected the price. Although we were certain that we could spend MORE than just a few weeks in Tassie, we both agreed that we couldn't spend too long there if we want our travel budget to last. We need to get ourselves to a place that cost less to travel around - and Australia sure ain't that place!

I've been pulled here. Not sure why - yet. Just a real sense of "GO THERE" whenever Tasmania entered into my mind.

Funny thing though - there was a moment when, even after purchasing the tickets, I thought we weren't going to make it here:

After leaving Akaroa and an early morning sunrise, we said goodbye to the Scubby (and Andrew and Jenny - the two responsible for Cruzy Campers) in Christchurch.












We arrived at the Quantas check-in counter in front of Eddie. "You have visas for Australia right?" he asked us.

Ummmm what?!?!? We'd checked the New Zealand requirements before we'd left Canada, we'd just spend days checking our options in South America, but never once did we think to check about Australia's requirements.

"Ha ha" said Keir, thinking this was yet another example of the Kiwi sense of humor. "We're Canadians...doesn't everyone want us?!?!"

"Not Australia" said Eddie "You really DO need a visa".

Both of our faces fell at the realization that there was no kidding around happening here.

"It'll take about a week and you'll have to do it all in Wellington" continued Eddie.

My heart is now on the floor and I am barely breathing. "Oh no, oh crap, oh no....." I manage to get out.

"Naw" he says, "Just go down and see Margaret at the service counter there and she'll get you all set up. It'll only take a moment. Thirty bucks each"

I'm still not breathing but somehow find myself down at the service counter in front of Margaret praying that we can indeed get a visa on such short notice.

Gotta love those Quantas folks. Not only do they have a sense of humor but they are efficient and utterly helpful. Margaret has us sorted out in under 10 minutes, so that, when we enter Australia and our passports are scanned our "e-visa" will show. Brilliant (although I'm still barely breathing!)

Back we schlep to Eddie who finds us the last two seats beside each other on the plane.

The flight is extremely enjoyable. All the Quantas folks are utterly terrific and we laugh out loud when the safety video starts and it's John Travolta (in his full captains outfit) who is smiling at us. He is, apparently, the spokesperson for Quantas and oddly, we DO agree that we feel safer after hearing the speel. Hey, if Quantas has John Travolta's seal of approval we MUST be in good hands!

We enjoy all the perks of a good airline: movies on the back of the seats with bundles of choices, a fairly decent gluten free and vegetarian meal (truly!), surprisingly comfortable seats. Thumbs up! We love that Expedia has set us up to fly Quantas all the way to Argentina!

We have a brief layover in Sydney that allows us enough time to get to another terminal, check in all over again and grab a little snack before boarding a Jet Star (owned by Quantas) flight to Hobart.

We land in the dark at 7pm, adjust our watches back 2 hours and, after a shuttle to the city, find our hotel and dump our bags. We hit Salamanca Street for a tasty wood fired pumpkin/rosemary/goats cheese/onion jam pizza (mouthwateringly good) and a pint of Fat Yak.








Tassie, here we are!

Around The Bay We Go!

What happens when you try and steal an unsuspecting couple's pumpkin-herb bread off their table? You get invited to take a boat ride around Akaroa Harbour, of course!

Last night we decide to treat ourselves to a final NZ dinner out at The Little Bistro in Akaroa and meet Bill and Joan from Christchurch at the table next to us. When Jenn teases them about pinching their bread while their heads are turned, this naturally sparks up a conversation (why not?) and they share with us stories of their travels to eastern Europe, including a few dicey situations in Russia and Bosnia.

"Give us a dingle tomorrow, and if the weather's nice, we'll give you a boat ride around the bay," says Bill only an hour after meeting us. "You can see the Hector's dolphins."

Jenn's turn to squeal.

And so the next morning, it is a little breezy, but the sun is out and we give them a call. (Travel rule #1 — if we're invited to do something and the inviters seem nice and safe enough, we do it!)

"Meet us at the wharf with the little house in Akaroa in a quarter hour," instructs Bill. "We'll be the blue boat with the black dog." Dolphins and now dogs — we're in! We pile on our layers (there is that nip in the air again!) and head down the hill from our campsite to meet them.

The black dog is a poodle named Czesky — the boat, a comfy six seater outboard and minutes after stepping down off the wharf into the boat, we are pounding through the chop, along the big cliffs of the peninsula and straight out towards the Pacific.
















The views are once again stunning.







We head from Akaroa Harbour, past the settlement of Onuku and all the way out to Te Ruahine point which is comprised of high cliffs and deep caves holding petrels nesting and resting on the ledges.





























Hey, are those dolphins over there? Don't tell Jenn...

From there, it's out into the Pacific and on to Akaroa Head where the old lighthouse once sat.














Then, we sped around the corner to a beautiful inlet, filled with seals and a waterfall at the end.





















On our way back into the harbour, we again spot the Hector's dolphins, which are smaller than the Duskys we've seen up in Kaikoura. Bill masterfully eases the boat alongside and they play tag up front by the bow, jumping into the air for us — our own private show!













It's a bumpy ride back through more chop (we get airborne more than once) and then a tour around the other end of the harbour to the small settlements of Wainui, Tikao, French Farm, Robinson's Bay (where their bach is located) past Takamatua and returning to the wharf at





















We have quickly come to appreciate the beauty of Banks Peninsula and seeing more of it from the water is SUCH a special treat. Once again, the kindness and welcoming of people overwhelms us.




















Oh wait, it's not done...

We stop by Bill and Joan's bach later in the afternoon (they invited us, we promise). Bill is just coming up from setting his flounder nets out in the bay and Joan takes us down to have a look from the beach. It is around 5pm, and the afternoon colours are highlighting the hills to artistic effect. Their bach affords an expansive view of Robinson's Bay and beyond and sitting outside on their deck cloaks us in serenity.














That fall chill is still in the air, so we soon move inside where their oversized windows perfectly frame that can't-get-enough view. We could have a yarn with these two for ages, yet the time flies by and soon the sun is dropping down behind the banks of the Banks. Bill and Joan walk us back up the road to our camper and we wave a fond goodbye. How can we possibly thank these lovely folks enough?

Tonight the clocks turn back giving us an extra hour on our last full day in New Zealand. A small goodbye gift from this wonderful country as it extends itself to us yet again.

Okains Bay

Having received a tip from a gal in Akaroa, we head over to Okains Bay to visit the Maori and Colonial Museum. As far as we can figure, the museum has the most extensive collection of Maori artifacts in the whole of the South Island and it is a real treat to take our time and wander through.









If you are in New Zealand make sure to go and support this underfunded treasure — heck a cup of tea is included in the admission price! It truly was one of the best museums we've been to.











We lunch down at the beach in the lovely scenic reserve and then take a walk along the old wharf road. No wharfs actually exist in Okains Bay now — although there are remnants of them left to be viewed.











We watch a small blow hole spout water as the tide comes in and then, thankfully, the sun finally makes an appearance and we are at last able to shed our toques and mittens (yes, fall is here now!).

We take the scenic Summit Road drive back to Akaroa along the top ridge. Spectacular views await our eyes at every turn!



After setting ourselves up in a prime spot at the campsite, we walk down into town to mail some postcards. In the lovely park there, we meet another four legged friend who is happy to oblige with some snuggling!




On our way home, Keir stops at a small cafe and decides on the spot that this is where we will have our last special meal out in New Zealand. He makes a reservation and dabs away the drool.

The Little Bistro is a treat for sure. Small (room for about 24 people in total) and intimate and abounding with good smells, we indulge in our last meal out.








What a scrumptious meal it is! The chef is originally from Wales and moved here to raise his family with his Kiwi born wife. This fellow knows what he is doing. The pumpkin, leek and pea risotto is gorgeous and the sweet and sour blackberry dessert "soup" is sublime. Our kind server even brings over some homemade fijoia liqueur — this stuff is better than limoncello!

Thankfully, we chose to walk down from our campsite so we enjoy a lovely night walk back stargazing and looking down on the twinkly town of Akaroa from above. Sweet dreams indeed!

Banks Peninsula (The Chili Pot)

According to Maori lore, while Maui was fishing one day, so mighty was his struggle to reel in a giant stingray, his waka (canoe) capsized. It is his overturned boat that now forms the South Island while the captured stingray became the North Island.

Kyle, our Abel Tasman kayak guide, described the oddly positioned Banks Peninsula east of Christchurch on the South Island as a pot of chili from Maui's waka that landed upside down beside the boat.

Named Banks Peninsula by Captain Cook in recognition of his accompanying egotistical botanist, Joseph Banks, (the Chili Pot name never quite caught on...), the area is a sharp contrast in terrain from the flat, flat land of the Canterbury Plains. Formed by three volcanoes, the peninsula is constructed of tall green hills, deep valleys and small bays leading out to the Pacific ocean. It contends as some of the best scenery in all of NZ.




After the earthquake in Christchurch, Jenn and I are uncertain whether we are able to (or should) visit the peninsula. But the locals assure us all is well and things are safe, so we venture out for a look-see. We are so very glad we did.

Dotted in many of the small bays are towns — Robinson's Bay, Okains Bay, Duvauchelle, Le Bons Bay, and the larger (slightly) settlement of Akaroa.
Originally intended to be a French settlement — before the British put an end to that — Akaroa still maintains some of its French roots with quaint streets bearing French names and shops playing up the francophone theme.




Our biggest and most pleasant surprise is how undeveloped the town of Akaroa and the entire Peninsula region is. Being only an hour from Christchurch (the largest city on the South Island) we anticipate finding what we discovered on the Queen Charlotte Sounds — large holiday homes filling the landscape and bays. Instead, we find holiday homes, some of them large, in the small settlements, but overall a vastly unspoiled area with terrific views and a very relaxed atmosphere.

Our campsite sells us from the outset — located at the top of the hill and overlooking the harbor and Akaroa, it is small, has great amenities and the songs of bell birds in the trees, something you don't always hear once the stoats and possums move in.

We spend some time looking around the town, checking out the small galleries and shops and then sussing out any walks that might be good to do. We eat our dinner out on a picnic table at the campsite, amused by the "just arrived in NZ" British couple bickering as they try to figure out how to work their new camper van. Two and half months ago, that was us.

The view of the bay below, bathed in the orange glow of a sunset, diverts our attention. For a place we were uncertain about and that still gets a few small shakes, it has a remarkably peaceful energy.




"I think we should just stay here for the next few days," I say to Jenn.

She nods. "Fine with me."