Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Home Again Home Again Jiggity Jig

Our feet have once again touched Canadian soil. After an easy flight back from Seattle, we return to our beloved country to..... visit a walk in clinic.
Oh, and see our family and friends, of course!
But, firstly to go see a doctor.
Which we manage to do the afternoon we arrive.

It seems while visiting the tropical Iguazu area of Argentina we may have unknowingly picked up some extra uninvited parasitic guests (thank goodness customs didn't grill us on what we were bringing back into the country!!!).

The short of it is this:
It's gross.
We're extremely uncomfortable.
It needs to end.

So, although it is not the ideal way we would have preferred to end this leg of our journey, it is a very key reason for our return. Not that 5 1/2 months of being away hasn't left us tired and in need of some time to process all that we've done though.

We are looking forward to spending time with family, catching up with friends, cuddling with Itty, planning where to go next, and.....

... the clinic test results — we're really looking forward to those!

The Seattle Summary

We were expecting the west coast rain to stay with us until the end. However, both of the full days we spent in Seattle were rain-free. We took our time and enjoyed wandering around the centre of the city. Had we been feeling our best, there is no doubt we would have explored more of the outlying neighbourhoods, but weeks of enduring what we think may be an intestinal parasite slowed us down.

On our Seattle loved list:

• The roomy feel of the downtown (We couldn't figure out where everyone was! No matter the time of day, the downtown area felt downright spacious)

• The Seattle Art Museum sculpture park down by the waterfront. We so enjoyed it there that we returned the following day to sit and watch the boats in the harbour.









• The varied architecture such as the public library by Rem Koolhaas and the Experience Music Project building by Frank Gehry





• Eating at Serious Pie in Belltown — the spring pea soup is dreamy and the pizza pies are the perfect size and topped with great fresh veggies, cheeses and seafoods and meats

• Our CINERAMA experience. One of the few remaining CINERAMAS in the world that can still show the classic "three strip projection" format that was CINERAMA, this one in Belltown has been meticulously restored with help from Microsoft founder, Paul Allen. State of the art digital projection and sound, great seating and cheap treats make the ultimate movie experience. Check out more at: http://www.cinerama.com/

• The philanthropic perks sprinkled throughout the city such as CINERAMA, the sculpture park, the art museum and more. There's big money in Seattle. Microsoft, Starbucks, The Gates Foundation. It's interesting to see what unlimited financing can do when applied to make a city a culturally rich experience for people.

• The relaxed feel of the whole place (as far as city experiences go this was a pretty nice one)

• KEXP Radio. A Seattle legend, this community funded alternative music station has been around since the 80's playing everything the big corporate stations won't touch. Nirvana, Pearl Jam, Death Cab For Cutie — thank these guys for discovering and bringing them to you. Here the DJ's still program their own sets and are committed to giving a voice to music and causes outside of the mainstream. Now also streamed online means the station is heard all over the world and we've been fans for several years. Since we're in Seattle, we thought we'd drop by the station (it turns out to be only a couple of blocks from our hotel) and make a donation in person. Good idea! They invite us in, give us a full tour of the station, let us talk to all the folks (really — it wasn't that big of a donation...) It's the highlight of our day and reminds us again of the importance of being part of something that's genuinely making a difference. Also it's another great Seattle philanthropic example — people love this station and believe in what they stand for. Three times a year, KEXP puts on a pledge drive to keep the station going and every time, people give generously.

• The coffee. Maybe not quite the caffiene experience one has in Buenos Aires, but pretty darn good. I'm still buzzing...


Did not love:

• The street people that throng to the Pike Place Market and along Pike Street giving it a very unsavory feeling. There's a growing disparity in Seattle that's reflected all over the U.S. — those who do and those who don't. Time to put some of that philanthropic money and influence to work in this area.




• No subway to quickly and easily connect to other. Traffic to the airport is a bitch... then again, isn't it always?!?!

Tuesday, June 14, 2011

Yep, We're In Seattle!





Comin' Round The Rainier Mountain

Having scooted up the pacific coast all the way, we figured we should at least pop into the Washington Cascades and see a bit of the mountains.

We leave Port Angeles and drive south along the Puget Sound to Tacoma where we find Highway 7 and head further south (through some pretty dicey city sections) and then back into more rural areas, heading towards Mount Rainier National Park.

Mount Rainier is Washington's highest mountain charting in at 4300 metres — the fifth highest in all of the U.S. Proudly sporting 26 glaciers, it's also a volcano like its sister Mount St Helens to the south. Unlike the tempestuous Ms Helen, it hasn't tossed its lava cookies since 1854. Maybe it's due? Not right now, please... On a clear day, you can see Rainier's icy tip from all over the western portion of the state. However, clear days are a rarity in these parts and today is no exception.

Just outside of the national park, we stop in the visitor centre (hut) in the small town of Ashford and inquire about lunch. It's getting late in the afternoon and we're both feeling a bit cranky. We're sent down the road another few miles to a couple of options, one being Alexander's Country Inn, who do up a tasty pasta and fish lunch. It's the fresh and homemade blackberry pie that wins us over and when we inquire about a room for the night, they provide the grand tour, showing off all their heritage B&B rooms.

So we stay. It's a pretty nice place, plus they throw in an all-you-can-eat breakfast. And of course, the promise of more pie!

In the morning, there are blips of sunlight and blue sky and hopes that Mount Rainier's peak will be visible. We stuff ourselves with breakfast and then head into the park.

Now, that's a first class national park entrance, don't you think?





Mount Rainier National Park is beautiful, sunlight or no sunlight. Glacial rivers, waterfalls, dense cedar forests, volcanic rock, pikas and deer.




Oh, and snow. LOTS AND LOTS OF SNOW.





June 14th, early summer and about five miles into the park, we encounter so much snow that it seems impossible it will all melt before it starts falling all over again next winter.

We also get a few partial glimpses of the mountain as we drive up to the Paradise Visitor's Centre, one of the highest points you can access before you have to put on the crampons and hike up to the mountain hut at 10,000 feet. Have fun with that...





Yes, there's snow. This year the park had 900 inches of the white stuff! Skiing anyone? One guy we see puts on the boots and skis and swishes down the hill. No chair lift, so it's pretty much a one way trip....








Coming back down to reality, we stop and check out some of the less snowy trails. We're both a little under the weather, so we don't do much strenuous walking.

Hey, here comes the Mount Rainier summit through the clouds. Can you see it?





When it does reveal itself, it towers over everything.

Just a sneak peak. We're happy with that.

Sunday, June 12, 2011

Los Angeles to Port Angeles — The End Of The Coast

Back on the road we go!

Leaving our ocean shore house in Yachats, we continue up along the Oregon coastline, stopping in Cannon Beach to check out the Haystack Rock and more of those darn compelling sea stacks.








Cannon Beach is also home to excellent coffee (at The Sleepy Monk), and a great little store called Found, which features the work of local artists created with found objects, It's also home to the Cannon Beach Hardware store — the greatest hardware I've ever seen! It's not just a hardware store, it also pours draft beer, serves hot dogs and popcorn, has tables and three flatscreen TV's showing wall to wall sports. It's a real man den and a pretty neat idea. Guys go in for some rope and nails and end up staying for the Mariner's game. I wanted to hang out, have a beer and watch Sportscentre, but it was a little early being only 10:00 in the morning...

From there we head to Astoria, the most northern city in Oregon, cross the mouth of the Columbia river like Lewis and Clark, and enter the state of Washington.



After a visit to Cape Disappointment (not so much disappointing as ho hum) we head for the beach town of Ocean Shores in hope of finding somewhere to bunk down. Washington, so far, is, how shall we say it... not as 'visually or culturally exciting' as the past two states. It's a little lackluster. Culturally deprived, we might say. Ocean Shores consists mainly of two one-way streets and another very, very long strip of flat sand beach that stretches for miles. Everyone drives their cars on it — even us. It makes taking a stroll on the beach kinda tricky.

From there, it's due north for the final stretch along the west coast. This takes us through Copalis Beach, Moclips, a diversion around the Quinault First Nations Reservation and into the Washington northern peninsula and Olympic National Park. The coastline here continues to be pure, flat sandy beach, but rock outcroppings begin to show up as we push on The forest on the other side is lush, green and thick. We also encounter barren patches where it has been clear cut. The lumber industry thrives in Washington.

Ruby Beach is our final look at the west coast. And the sea stacks are back!














Just off shore is Destruction Island, the coolest name for an island I know.

This is as far as we can go along Highway 101 before it turns inland and heads up to Port Angeles and the Strait of Juan de Fuca. We say goodbye to the coast, our constant companion since we left Los Angeles. Mission accomplished. The west coast has been driven!

We go east into Olympic National Park and veer right off of 101 to check out the Hoh Rain Forest. Lots of moss. Lots of greenery. We spend a couple of hours walking about, looking for elks and bears. Elks we see. No bears. It's a pleasant diversion.





It's a maple tree....seriously...








Then it's on to the town of Forks. Nothing special here. Some lumberjacks. Some teen vampires.




Forks, in case you don't know, is the setting for the Twilight book/movie series — Edward, Bella, Jacob and their gang of wolves and bloodsuckers. The town doesn't quite seem to know what hit it — Twilight movie franchise on one side, traditional lumber industry on the other. It's a surreal mix. Here, Jenn gets a lift on Bella's truck from the movie.




Okay, enough of that stuff. Onto Port Angeles. Hey! From Los Angeles to Port Angeles, we've gone all the way!.

Oh damn, there's more Twilight stuff here — the movie theatre, the restaurant for Edward and Bella's first date. Help, we're trapped in 'The Twilight Zone!'

Thursday, June 9, 2011

Whales, Lumberjack Cuts and Other Musings

Today we pressed the Expedia CONFIRM button and booked our flight back to Canada for next week. It's time to come home for a reset from the reset.

Both of us are weary and in need of a regroup before we head out on the road again to some of the other places we want to go to. Being here in Yachats, Oregon and having a chance to sit and stare at the ocean has driven home to us how much we have done over the past 5 and a bit months. We'd still like to go to Alaska. We'd like to go to the Arctic. We'd like to go to Iceland and Newfoundland and Labrador. But we need to regroup, change up the underwear and bags and hug our family members, friends and kitty before we can move on to that.

The waves out front of the house are massive, collapsing over themselves in a froth of white foam as they roll in. The sun is setting and we're hoping tonight will bring a true Oregon sunset which has eluded us the past few evenings. I like it here very much. The creative energy is good. I like the rocky shoreline and being beside the water.

Yesterday we saw whales. Jannah at the Visitors Centre informed us that many of the grey whales stay along the Oregon coast during the summer months and will cruise close to shore with their young in order to avoid any hungry orcas. Suddenly, we are seeing whales everywhere. There is something about spotting whales that brings smiles to everyone in the vicinity— whales seem to strip everyone from their bad moods, their anxieties, their need to get somewhere and get things done. People will just stop and scan the water surface for air puffs and then point excitedly and get out the binoculars and watch as the whales pass by, spouting a tall shot of water and air and then giving a flip of the fluke before diving down. No one is immune to the charm of whales. Remember that when planning your next social event...

Also important to remember — never let a lumberjack cut your hair.

Today I went to a salon in Waldport to get a haircut, a salon recommended by the lady in the visitor's centre. I get set up with Alan — burly, flannel shirt wearing, Alan — who, as he pulls out his axe...oops, I mean scissors, informs me this is his first week in the salon and for twenty five years previously, he was a lumberjack in the Oregon forest.

Could this be the big surprise of the western coast? A remarkable haircut by a lumberjack who has forged a special connection between the art of cutting trees and cutting hair?

Eight dollars later the answer is nope. No go. Even as Alan starts out, I can tell, as untrained as I am at cutting hair, it's not going to go well. About five awkward snips in, I just decide to go with it and pray he leaves enough hair for me to get restorative work done at a later date.

Alan is not the sociable type. He speaks in short monosyllabic bursts and has trouble looking people in the eye. Give him a chainsaw, a pine filled forest and nature's solitude and he'd be in his element. In 1987, he had his larynx crushed by a logging chain that whipped him in the throat. He endured a tracheotomy in order to breathe. His adam's apple is a plastic substitute inserted by the surgeons. The doctors were unsure if he would ever speak again. But six months later, he was back in the woods, felling trees like nothing ever happened, able to take a full breath and speak just fine.

Then the logging work dried up. Alan received a grant from the state government to retrain himself. For reasons unknown, he chose hair cutting.

Meeting up with Alan gives me a sense of what life is like for people in Oregon. Along the coast we've heard from people that the economy all over the country is not good. Gas prices are high. Vacation rentals are down. There's little work. Here in Yachats, we've met good and kind people. And we've also heard (and encountered) stories of folk who are under educated and lacking motivation. The available work is mostly skilled labour. Except, skill levels are low. Standards are even lower.

Alan troubles me. I'm not sure he's going to make it as a hairdresser. He's not very good. Jenn says she can see the stumps from the clearcut... Maybe over time, Alan will improve. He's determined. He tells me about his commitment and his positive attitude which he believes will allow him to succeed. For $8 a cut, maybe people won't care too much about the quality of their styling job?

But the woods are really his place. Now that he's in the salon everyday and not outside, he's started to wheeze again when he breathes. I mention the forests and all the spruce trees nearby and his face lights up.

"I love it in the woods," he says.

But that's no longer a career option.





Life Oceanside

The decision to stay in Yachats has proven to be the perfect antidote for two weary travelers. We are both appreciating the slow days, incredible view of the ocean right outside our door, and the opportunity to cook our own meals. I am reminded of a favourite quote, "A day doesn't have to exhaust me to be worth living". A timely reminder!

Despite the overcast weather, we have enjoyed doing a bit of hiking and looking around the area for the past few days. Monday was spent walking along the shoreline out front (and heading to nearby Waldport to do much needed laundry!).






On Tuesday, we ventured down the road to hike up and around Cape Perpetua (the highest point along the coast). The views were indeed outstanding.




We also stopped in to the churning, foaming Devil's Churn.





We have discovered the tide pools directly out front of our little cottage to be the best in the area. They are filled with healthy anemones, sea stars, crabs and snails and an abundance of different sea plants. Needless to say, there is daily tide-pooling happening!








Most of the time though, we just love watching the big TV show outside our front windows — watching the waves and the spouting grey whales and the sea lions swim by, watching the pelicans skim along the water, mere inches from the crashing surf.... just watching and watching.

Wednesday, we walked north along the 804 trail, part of the Oregon Coast trail, which took us along more beautiful rocky shores, ending at a 7 mile long beach stretch. The clouds parted to share the sun with this wide stretch of paradise.

















Monday, June 6, 2011

Yachats (or as the locals say 'Ya-Hots')

Yachats (Ya-hots) is apparently the "gem of the Oregon coast." Not sure yet if it's a gem, but it is pretty darn nice. Small coastal town. A couple promising cafes. Great rocky shoreline (No sea stacks, but word is there's some up the way. We'll be checking it out..)

We pulled in Sunday around 3:30 p.m. and went straight to the Visitor's Centre looking for 'cabin like' accommodation — a place we could stay put for a few days. We're beat. We need to stop for a few days, rest up and explore this coast line up close. The kindly volunteer lady gave us some brochures for lodges and cottagey motels in the area that also have kitchenettes. Out the door we go to check out our options when we notice that right next door is the Yachats Vacation Rental offices. Why not, we say?

And in about 20 minutes, super efficient Jason has us all set up in a tiny house right beside the ocean — like RIGHT BESIDE the ocean. Tsunami warning, run up the hill with your valuables right beside. He hands us the keys to the place and suggests we go and look things over.









It's perfect!

So, here we are for the next five days. I'd found Yachats in our guidebook the night before and noticed it had lots of Captain Cook references, so I took that as a good sign being that the good Captain and his historical travels have been a theme for this journey. Just down the way is Cape Perpetua, the highest point on the Oregon coast, named by Cookie himself. To the north is Cape Foulweather, also a Cook discovery. We seem to have the the hots for Ya-hots — destiny if you will. And the fact that we had everything sorted in 20 minutes is telling us it's the right place to be and the right thing to do.

So far, it's been ideal. We did our laundry, got some groceries, walked along the shore and checked out the tide pools and smashing waves. Sea lions go swimming by. Pelicans soar past. There's rumours of whales out there, but we've yet to see them.














We called our car rental place and told them the car will be back when we're good and ready. We'll decide in the next couple of days how we want to proceed from here, but for now, it feels good to be in one place again and going slow for a bit.

Oregon & Sea Stacks

Goodbye California — Hello Oregon! Saturday we cross the state line (just before the cops can nab us!) into the hazelnut and cranberry state.




There was a semi-large queue of folks at the Oregon state line snapping their photos by the sign — just like this goof above. You'd think they'd build a parking lot to handle all the cars instead of having everyone pull to the shoulder of the highway. Kinda dangerous. We had to snap some photos for other people, like the two guys who drove from Santa Cruz and now that they'd crossed over the line, were heading straight back. They just wanted the photo op, we guess.

Oregon has more terrific rocky shoreline bluffs and rugged beauty.












We stop for the night in little Bandon, Oregon and go for dinner at Thai Thai, which is top notch, but don't order the curry 'mild plus' because it really comes 'BLISTERING HOT PLUS!' Lots of sweating over here.... not a pretty sight....

Bandon is the cranberry capital of the USA. Ocean Spray even has a factory here and buys up all the berries. Bandon also has great sea stacks on the beach so we take a stroll amongst them while the tide is out.













Did I mention I'm obsessed with sea stacks? Love them!