Going To Need Jobs Fast... Wine Shopping Is Killer!

Yes, we're back in Sonoma, rendezvousing with my sister who is joining us for our time out on the coast in Gualala. And when one is in Sonoma... hmmm, what could we possibly get up to?

Oh, we're bad. It's not even Sonoma we truly love — it's the Alexander Valley and The Russian River Valley areas just north of Sonoma that get us weak in the knees for Chardonnays and Pinots and has us slapping down our credit card faster than you can say, "Aged in French oak."

"Do you prefer the Pinot or the Chardonnay?"

Uh, we'll take both...

Yeah, it's bad. But the wine is just so darn good. We hit a bunch of small family wineries today, driving along the winding county lanes, with rows and rows of grapevines on all sides. It's raining on and off. There's sun, then a shower, then cloud. Then more sun, rain, cloud. The day can't decide. The good news is that the worst of the rain seems to over and things will warm up again over the next few days — we hope.

Anyway, back to the wining. We start the morning at The Robert Young estate in the Alexander Valley. Beautiful grounds, some great wines and a darling hostess named Tina make for a great experience. Tina sends us on to try nearby wineries Stryker and Hawkes. At Hawkes we meet Alex and spend some time with her trading stories about New Zealand after we learn she spent seven months there. And then we bought a bottle of cab...













Alex sends us next door to the cafe/shop The Jimtown Store for lunch. Who knew it served food? It advertises as an antique shop. It turns into a highlight of the day as we order smoked albacore sandwich with lavender lemonade and a ginger cookie. We need something in our stomachs to soak up all those wine tastings!





Then we hit Medlock Ames, another great vintner doing some interesting organic practices, before heading on to our favorite, making our big comeback to the DeLoach winery just outside of Santa Rosa. No disappointment here — DeLoach is still doing the fabulous Chardonnays and Pinots we remember from last time. First rate.




Yeah, maybe we stocked up...

And now we're in Petaluma, waiting to pick up my sister and then go out and celebrate all being together in CA. We should have just enough money to get a bucket of wings at KFC... if we can find a 2 for 1 coupon....

Getting To The Point

It has rained all Monday night in Ukiah and the weather man gleefully informs us there is more rain to come. However, there is a gap of about eight hours before the next rain is scheduled. In fact, as we eat breakfast in the Best Westie, the sun is actually shining.

We can probably just squeeze in a hike.

So we head for Point Reyes National Park over on the coast.

Located just below Bodega Bay, Point Reyes National is a place we reluctantly missed during our drive along the coast in May. Consisting of thunderous ocean breakers crashing against rocky headlands, expansive sand beaches, open grasslands, brushy hillsides and forested ridges, Point Reyes is California's only National Park right on the coast. The town of Point Reyes Station, just outside the park, is much more populated than we expect. Not that we are complaining... especially after our stop in at The Bovine Bakery for bear claws and pizza. They even have gluten free options... and tasty ones at that! The chocolate chocolate cherry cookie? BOvine...oops, we mean DIVINE!!!

The ranger at the Reyes visitor center gets us sorted with a map and a list of hiking options for the afternoon. We choose The Tomales Point Trail which meanders some 5 miles out through the Tule Elk Reserve and back. It is easy hiking compared to the Sierra's. The weather is grey and brisk, but still no rain. Not yet!

Mossy up here...




It's good to see our friend the Pacific again!












We see lots of the elk beasts (despite the fact that they are the smallest of the elk species they look mighty big to us especially with those giant racks of antlers).

In the distance, we even see Bodega Bay where we hiked earlier in the year!




By 5:30 p.m. we are back in Healdsburg where we have decided to stay for the evening. We nosh at Willi's Raw Bar and swing a great room at the Best West Dry Creek. Aaah! Luxury... terrycloth robes and all!

There Goes the Sun....let's hope not for good!

The bad weather arrives indeed. Monday morning and it is high winds, cold temperatures and rain, rain, rain. Our camping luck holds out though and we don't hit the drab until after we've packed up and had a stroll through historic Truckee.

Keir is in love with the name of this town (I'm still convinced the nearby town of "Rough and Ready" wins the name game though) and the town itself doesn't disappoint. The historic downtown is very cute in a wild west kind of way. We first sniff out the local Coffeebar for a fantastic cup of morning espresso before sidling up to Squeeze Inn for a hearty breakfast (day two of Keir's Oatmeal Strike).

The Squeeze Inn has been featured on the Food Network in some omelette competition with celebrity chef Bobby Flay and the place itself has some colorful character with the walls adorned with visitor's signatures, photos and words of wisdom. It's kitchy-cute.

Afterwards, we wander the street window shopping. Getting drawn into one adorable local artists collective (there was a silkscreened owl tee in the window... had too stop!!) where we chat with the salesgirl (and I confess, buy the owl tee). She was a gem of knowledge, having grown up on the coast in Sonoma County and we left the store with a list of great bakeries and restaurants to visit when we meet up with Keir's family.

We left the good weather in Truckee too it seems because from there to here (here is Ukiah) it rained pretty much nonstop.

Hoping to warm up in style, we stop into the acclaimed Vichy Springs Resort with our fingers crossed that they have a special Monday night stay and spa deal. The rain (and cold hard reality) wash that dream right away though so here we are, in nearby Ukiah, in yet another Best Western. Can't complain though — we are clean, fed and cosy!

Everything is Closed!

Alright, not EVERYTHING.

Rising to greet another chilly morning, Keir throws down the gauntlet by refusing to make breakfast at our campsite, "There are TWO great restaurants nearby", he implores, "and besides, I'm not eating any more of your oatmeal!"

Off we set to the Fire Sign Grill, one of the aforementioned great restaurants and within easy walking distance of our site. We beat the rush (although the restaurant is already packed by the time we arrive) and settle in to a tasty breakfast of a veggie eggs bennie for Jenn and a short stack (they are not very short) of blueberry buckwheat pancakes for Keir.

After waddling back to our site, we share a cuppa with Shelly and Glen before setting out for the day. Keir is interested in driving up to the former 1960 Winter Olympic site of Squaw Valley to take the gondola up to a 5 mile hike that our book describes as magical. The bonus is an Olympic Museum that also at the top of the mountain.

Gold medalist skier Nancy Green (of the "we-got-to-ski-with-her-on-our-ski-trip-to-Sun-Peaks fame"...well more likely of the "she-won-a-gold-medal fame", but whatever!) won her gold here and Keir is eager to look through the museum.

Thwarted! The gondola is closed in this shoulder season reopening only when the ski seasons begins.

We backtrack to the D.L Bliss State Park with the idea that we will meander along the edge of Lake Tahoe on the 6 mile Rubicon Trail.

Thwarted again! The D.L. Bliss State Park is closed for the season!

Backtracking even further, we try to snag a parking spot at the Vikingsholm trailhead — the other end of the Rubicon Trail.

Thwarted again! The lot is packed to the gills with folks just wanting to capitalize on the lovely overlook on Emerald Bay.

We turn the car around noting that we'd seen cars randomly parked at pulls outs along the road. Surely we'll find another way to jump on the trail!

Finally! Luck!

Keir bumps into a ranger who is on her way down a service road and who confirms for us that if we just walk down this incredibly steep 2 mile road, we will indeed join up with the Rubicon Trail.











The wait and walk is worth it — the trail is indeed lovely (although not for knowing that we had that steep 2 mile road to walk back up at the end of our walk!).




With news that snow and cold is on its way into the area on Monday, we opt to camp just one more night in the area and then get out ahed of the first winter blast. We choose Meek's Bay campsite on the shore and bundle up. The night is brisk, but not too bad at all.

Tahoe Trekkin'

There are some lovely trails around Lake Tahoe and we know we won't be able to do even a fraction of them so we settle for two on our first full day here — the 1.5 mile trail to Cascade Falls and the 2 mile trail to Eagle Lake.

But first....Tahoe's streets are being ripped up by construction crews. Couple that with it being a weekend, a clearly popular OctoberFest celebration AND a Kokanee Salmon Run festival and you have some very busy roads around the Lake.

We do stop off to see the salmon running in Taylor Creek. Their bodies turn an eye catching shade of red and the males develop a hook jaw signifying the start of their journey upstream from Lake Tahoe to spawn.




Further along the road, we stop to gaze out over Emerald Bay. This is also the start of the trail to Cascade Falls. We pack a light snack and end up snacking with our legs dangling over the edge of the now-lightly running falls gazing out to Cascade Lake below...and Lake Tahoe below that.


















We luck into a parking spot at the trailhead to Eagle Lake. This trail travels up one steep mile before depositing us on the edge of a very becoming lake just inside the Desolation Wilderness. With snow still smattering the peaks overhead and a breeze blowing, we are reminded yet again that winter is none to far off for these parts!












Being that it is later in the day, we enjoy the scenery without all the crowds.

We make camp at the William Kent Campground where we later learn a bear gets caught while we are there and where we end up chatting the evening away with fellow campers Glen and Shelley from Nevada.

What starts off our conversation is the charming little teardrop trailer that Glen and Shelley are towing behind their truck. Turns out that Glen designs and makes them himself. They are the perfect size (weighing about 700 pounds) and can therefore be towed by nearly any vehicle. Given the dropping nightly temperatures, their cosy abode is looking mighty inviting!

Glen and Shelley graciously invite us to join their campfire (alright, allow us to stay, most likely because we continually pester them with questions thus not allowing them an opportunity to ask us to leave!!!). We all have much in common though — a love of outdoor pursuits and a keen interest in personal development in communication. We pass the evening most enjoyably together until the last log stops glowing in the fire.

Tufa

Tufa's (pronounced "too-fah") occur when calcium bubbles up from subterranean springs and mixes with the carbonate of the alkaline water. They occur is groves around the edge (and presumably in) of/the waters at Mono Lake.




Mono Lake is North America's second oldest lake and has been pulled into controversy for years as Los Angeles has tried (first successfully and now unsuccessfully) to siphon off the water. That in itself would be an expensive project. Add to that the fact that the water in Mono Lake is even saltier than the ocean and you have a very costly endeavour indeed!

Actually, LA wanted the clean water that runs off the Sierra peaks into Mono Lake. This caused a massive drop in the water levels in Mono and an increase of salt in the water. In 1994, after the lake levels had dropped drastically, the Cal State Water Resources Control Board mandated that LA had to reduce its dependence and allow the lake level to rise back up. The lake has still not reached the "sustainably managed" goal of a water level measuring 6,383 ft.

We are very impressed with the Visitor Center at Mono Lake and it is there we first see the unearthly images of the tufas. Speaking with one of the rangers, we learn that a few miles back down the road we can hop on an interpretive trail that will take us through the south "tufa grove."







It is an odd experience looking at these sand castle like structures and knowing that, not all that long ago, they were all underwater.














The drive along Hwy 395 and the eastern Sierra towards Lake Tahoe is spectacularly beautiful. The desert essentially slams up against the mountains of the Sierra Nevada creating a mixed bag of scenery. There are tall peaks, pine forests, hot springs, arid expanses of land, blue lakes, and vast gorges.




Turning off on Hwy 89 we climb the Monitor Pass to a bird's eye view of the California/Nevada border and then disappear into the mountains once again emerging at the water's edge of Tahoe.







The kind folk at the Best Western (also located on the water's edge of the South Shore), upgrade our room to a lovely lake view. We wander out to have a drink on the nearby pier before heading to Freshie's for some spicy delicious fish tacos...the quest to find California's best fish tacos continues!! Freshie's does not disappoint (although Jenn nearly burns poor Keir's mouth off by ordering the Jamaican Jerk shrimp tacos!!)

Tuolumne Meadows

Tioga Road is the only road to traverse Yosemite National passing through 56 scenic miles of Sierra high country up to the highest pass (Tioga Pass) at 9,945ft. This road is only open for a few months of the year and we are pleased to be able to enjoy its offerings.

We stop at Olmsted Point where we get a good look down Tenaya Canyon to the back side of the Half Dome. From this vantage point, we can actually see (with binoculars of course!) the line of hikers waiting to use the cable rings to climb to the summit.








Neither of us are feeling up for a big hike today, despite the abundance of hikes to choose from. Still, we make a stop in Tuolumne Meadows, the largest subalpine meadow in Yosemite, to do a leisurely walk ("to stretch our legs" Keir says) towards the bubbly soda springs. The "springs" are somewhat bubbly, but mostly dried up. However, the surrounding views make up for the lackluster springs.











We love the brilliant blue of the lakes that dot this area.




The drive out from the east side of the park provides quite a view. We are up close to snow, lakes and a plummeting valley with waterfalls to boot!








Near the town of Lee Vining (with a terrific view of Mono Lake) we stop at the Mobile gas station where we have heard rumor that an excellent deli exists. Really? Well, the "Whoa Nellie Deli" is indeed an oasis of gas station eating. The picturesque picnic tables on green grass with an unobstructed view down to Mono Lake is the perfect spot to tuck into a plate of fish tacos (one with mango salsa the other with ginger coleslaw). We love fish tacos and ordered them all the way up the coast when we were in California last time, so this was a happy find.











We find ourselves now, on this Thursday night at the Silver Lake campground along the June Lake Loop. Our campsite overlooks the back of the Ansel Adams Wilderness Area and is the most visually exciting campsite we have stayed at in this Yosemite area. We get jaggy peaks speckled with snow, roaring waterfalls that we can both see and hear and a lovely flat meadow in which to park our tent.











Tomorrow we aim to head up to Lake Tahoe, which could be a mistake, given that we will be arriving for the weekend. We'll see...